Gemstone and Setting Techniques Flashcards

What should a bench jeweler verify before beginning to set a gemstone?

Answer: That the stone's dimensions match the seat accurately

Verifying that the stone's dimensions match the prepared seat ensures a proper, secure fit before the setting process begins.

What tool is used to push and smooth prongs over the girdle of a set stone?

Answer: Burnisher

A burnisher is a smooth, polished tool used to press and blend metal prongs over the girdle of a stone, securing it without scratching.

What is the function of a bead raiser in pavé stone setting?

Answer: To lift a small bead of metal from the surface that will hold the stone

A bead raiser lifts a tiny bead of metal from the surrounding surface, creating a small prong that holds each pavé stone in place.

Which setting type offers the most protection for fragile stones such as opals or emeralds?

Answer: Bezel setting

A bezel setting provides the greatest protection for fragile stones by surrounding the entire girdle with a continuous metal wall.

What is 'undercutting' in the context of bezel setting?

Answer: Creating an inner ledge inside the bezel for the stone's girdle to rest on

Undercutting creates a small inner ledge inside the bezel wall against which the stone's girdle rests, setting it at the correct height and securing it firmly.

What is the most common cause of a stone rocking or wobbling in its setting after completion?

Answer: An improperly cut seat that doesn't match the stone's profile

A rocking stone almost always indicates the seat was cut unevenly or the culet point is resting on metal instead of being free in a properly cut depression.