332A Chemical Texture Services 1 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What chemical bond in the hair is permanently rearranged during a perm?
- Hydrogen bond
- Salt bond
- Disulfide bond (Correct answer)
- Peptide bond
Correct answer: Disulfide bond
Permanent waving works by breaking and reforming the disulfide bonds in the hair's cortex. The perm solution (reducing agent) breaks the bonds, the rods provide the new shape, and the neutralizer reforms them in the new position.
Question 2: What is the active ingredient in most alkaline (cold wave) perm solutions?
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Ammonium thioglycolate (Correct answer)
- Sodium hydroxide
- Glyceryl monothioglycolate
Correct answer: Ammonium thioglycolate
Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) is the primary reducing agent in alkaline permanent wave solutions. It has a pH of 9.0-9.6 and breaks disulfide bonds through a chemical reduction process.
Question 3: What is the purpose of the neutralizer in a perm?
- To break the disulfide bonds
- To oxidize and reform the disulfide bonds in their new configuration (Correct answer)
- To soften the cuticle for rod placement
- To condition the hair after processing
Correct answer: To oxidize and reform the disulfide bonds in their new configuration
The neutralizer (typically hydrogen peroxide-based) is an oxidizing agent that reforms the disulfide bonds in their new position around the perm rod. This locks the hair into its new curl pattern.
Question 4: What determines the size of the curl in a permanent wave?
- The strength of the perm solution
- The size of the perm rod used (Correct answer)
- The processing time
- The type of neutralizer
Correct answer: The size of the perm rod used
The diameter of the perm rod determines the size of the resulting curl. Smaller rods produce tighter curls, while larger rods produce looser waves. The rod size should be chosen based on the desired result.
Question 5: What is the difference between an alkaline perm and an acid perm?
- There is no difference
- Alkaline perms have a higher pH and process faster; acid perms have a lower pH and are gentler on the hair (Correct answer)
- Acid perms are stronger than alkaline perms
- Alkaline perms are used only on coloured hair
Correct answer: Alkaline perms have a higher pH and process faster; acid perms have a lower pH and are gentler on the hair
Alkaline perms (pH 9.0-9.6) process at room temperature, work faster, and produce stronger curls but can be more damaging. Acid perms (pH 4.5-7.0) require heat, process more slowly, and are gentler, making them suitable for damaged or fragile hair.
Question 6: What is a base cream or barrier cream used for in permanent waving?
- To improve curl formation
- To protect the scalp and skin around the hairline from chemical irritation (Correct answer)
- To speed up processing time
- To help the perm solution penetrate the hair
Correct answer: To protect the scalp and skin around the hairline from chemical irritation
A base cream or barrier cream is applied to the scalp and skin around the hairline before a perm to protect these areas from chemical irritation and potential burns from the perm solution.
332A Chemical Texture Services 1
What chemical bond in the hair is permanently rearranged during a perm?