Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

What is a chemical hair relaxer?

Answer: A product that permanently straightens curly or wavy hair by breaking and reforming disulfide bonds

A chemical hair relaxer permanently straightens curly, coily, or wavy hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the cortex and reforming them in a straighter configuration. The hair is smoothed straight rather than wrapped on rods.

What is the active ingredient in lye-based relaxers?

Answer: Sodium hydroxide

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), commonly known as lye, is the active ingredient in lye-based relaxers. It has a very high pH (12-14) and is the strongest type of relaxer, breaking disulfide bonds through a process called lanthionization.

Why should a relaxer never be applied to hair that has been previously permed?

Answer: The combination of two different chemical bond-breaking processes can cause severe damage and breakage

Applying a relaxer to previously permed hair subjects the already chemically altered bonds to a second aggressive chemical process. This double processing severely weakens the hair structure and is very likely to cause breakage, damage, or hair loss.

What is a base application versus a no-base application in relaxer services?

Answer: Base applies protective cream to the scalp before the relaxer; no-base has a built-in scalp protectant

A base relaxer requires applying a protective petroleum-based cream to the entire scalp before the relaxer to prevent chemical burns. A no-base relaxer contains a built-in protective ingredient but a light base is still recommended around the hairline and ears.

What is a spiral perm wrap?

Answer: Wrapping hair vertically from root to end around a long rod or tool, creating uniform spirals

A spiral perm wrap involves winding the hair in a corkscrew fashion vertically along the length of a long rod or spiral tool. Unlike croquignole wrapping, it produces a uniform curl from root to end.

What is a smoothing test in relaxer application?

Answer: Pressing the hair with fingers during processing to check if the curl pattern has sufficiently relaxed

A smoothing test involves periodically pressing the hair flat against the scalp with the back of a comb or fingers during relaxer processing to check if the natural curl pattern has been sufficiently straightened to the desired degree.