Jewelry Design Stone Setting Techniques 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is a 'flush' or 'gypsy' setting?
- Stones set above the metal surface on tall prongs
- Stones set level with the metal surface in drilled holes (Correct answer)
- Stones set in a recessed channel below the surface
- Stones set in a raised dome of metal
Correct answer: Stones set level with the metal surface in drilled holes
In a flush (or gypsy) setting, the stone is set into a drilled hole and burnished level with the surrounding metal surface, protecting the stone and creating a sleek appearance.
Question 2: What tool do setters use to push and burnish metal over a stone's girdle in a bezel setting?
- Graver
- Burnisher (Correct answer)
- Beading tool
- Scorper
Correct answer: Burnisher
A burnisher is a smooth, highly polished steel tool used to push and compress the bezel metal smoothly over the stone's girdle, securing it without leaving tool marks.
Question 3: In a shared prong (or shared claw) setting, what distinguishes it from a standard prong setting?
- Each stone has its own individual prongs
- A single prong is shared between two adjacent stones (Correct answer)
- Prongs are replaced by a continuous bezel
- It uses twice as many prongs per stone
Correct answer: A single prong is shared between two adjacent stones
In a shared prong setting, one prong is positioned between two adjacent stones and holds both simultaneously, reducing metal and increasing stone visibility.
Question 4: What is the 'girdle' of a faceted gemstone?
- The flat top facet of the stone
- The pointed bottom of the stone
- The widest circumferential edge separating crown and pavilion (Correct answer)
- The internal inclusion in the stone
Correct answer: The widest circumferential edge separating crown and pavilion
The girdle is the outermost edge of a gemstone at its widest point, separating the crown (top) from the pavilion (bottom), and is where most settings grip the stone.
Question 5: What is a 'graver' or 'burin' used for in stone setting?
- Polishing metal surfaces
- Cutting and raising metal for bead prongs or engraving (Correct answer)
- Measuring stone diameter
- Applying flux for soldering
Correct answer: Cutting and raising metal for bead prongs or engraving
A graver (or burin) is a hardened steel cutting tool used by setters to cut metal, raise beads that hold stones, create decorative engraving, and shape prongs.
Question 6: What is an 'illusion setting' designed to achieve?
- Making the stone appear to float above the ring
- Making a small stone appear larger through a mirrored metal plate around it (Correct answer)
- Hiding the stone until a lever is pressed
- Creating a color illusion by surrounding a stone with contrasting gems
Correct answer: Making a small stone appear larger through a mirrored metal plate around it
An illusion setting uses a raised, bright-cut faceted metal plate (often star-shaped) surrounding a small diamond to make it appear larger than its actual size.
Jewelry Design Stone Setting Techniques 2
What is a 'flush' or 'gypsy' setting?