I-CAR - Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair Certified Non-Structural Panel Repair Questions and Answers — Questions and Answers
Question 1: A technician is preparing a repaired area on a steel door skin for primer. After completing the body filler work and sanding it with 150-grit sandpaper, what is the next recommended step in the feather, prime, and block process according to industry standards?
- Apply a thick coat of high-build primer directly over the 150-grit scratches.
- Wet sand the entire panel with 800-grit sandpaper before priming.
- Featheredge the surrounding area with 180-grit, followed by 220-grit and then 320-grit sandpaper. (Correct answer)
- Apply glazing putty over the entire repair area to fill any remaining imperfections.
Correct answer: Featheredge the surrounding area with 180-grit, followed by 220-grit and then 320-grit sandpaper.
The correct procedure after initial bodywork is to featheredge the repair area, gradually using finer grits of sandpaper to create a smooth transition from the filler to the original paint. This ensures the primer will adhere properly and prevents sanding scratches from showing in the final finish.
Question 2: When performing a two-sided repair on a crack that penetrates a plastic bumper cover, which of the following is a critical first step for the backside repair?
- Apply adhesion promoter to the front side of the crack.
- Use a flexible polyester filler to bridge the gap on the backside.
- Apply a thin coat of repair material, embed reinforcing mesh, and then apply another coat of material over the mesh. (Correct answer)
- Heat the plastic with a heat gun until it becomes molten to fuse the crack together.
Correct answer: Apply a thin coat of repair material, embed reinforcing mesh, and then apply another coat of material over the mesh.
For a durable two-sided plastic repair, the backside must be reinforced. The standard procedure involves applying a layer of adhesive, embedding a reinforcing mesh or cloth into the wet material, and then encapsulating it with another layer. This creates a strong, stable foundation for the cosmetic repair on the front.
Question 3: Which of the following is a primary reason that repairing a large, sharp dent on an aluminum hood is significantly more challenging than a similar dent on a mild steel hood?
- Aluminum is much softer and tears more easily during repair.
- Aluminum work-hardens at the site of the damage and does not have the 'memory' of steel. (Correct answer)
- Specialized aluminum filler is required, which is difficult to apply.
- Weld-on dent pulling equipment for steel can be used on aluminum with a lower power setting.
Correct answer: Aluminum work-hardens at the site of the damage and does not have the 'memory' of steel.
Aluminum undergoes work-hardening when it is bent or stretched, making the damaged area stronger and more resistant to being reshaped. Unlike steel, aluminum does not have 'metal memory,' meaning it will not naturally try to return to its original shape, making the repair process more difficult.
Question 4: A technician needs to restore corrosion protection to the inside of a new non-structural rocker panel after installation. According to I-CAR recommendations, what is the generally preferred method for treating this enclosed area?
- Injecting self-etching primer followed by a heavy wax-based coating.
- Applying anti-corrosion compound alone using a 360-degree spray nozzle wand. (Correct answer)
- Thoroughly cleaning the interior surface and then applying a two-part epoxy primer.
- Filling the entire cavity with sound-deadening foam to displace moisture.
Correct answer: Applying anti-corrosion compound alone using a 360-degree spray nozzle wand.
Modern I-CAR recommendations for enclosed areas like rocker panels, which are already E-coated from the factory, focus on applying an anti-corrosion compound alone. This is applied using a wand with a 360-degree nozzle to ensure complete coverage, creeping into seams and protecting weld areas.
Question 5: A vehicle comes into the shop with several small, shallow dents on the trunk lid where the paint is not broken. The owner wants the most efficient and cost-effective repair that preserves the factory finish. Which repair method is most suitable for this scenario?
- Grind, fill, prime, and repaint the entire trunk lid.
- Weld-on dent removal followed by minor touch-up paint.
- Paintless Dent Repair (PDR). (Correct answer)
- Heat shrinking the dents with a torch and dolly.
Correct answer: Paintless Dent Repair (PDR).
Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) is the ideal method for small dents and dings where the paint surface is intact. PDR technicians use specialized tools to massage the metal back to its original form from the backside of the panel, preserving the factory paint and offering a faster, less expensive repair than traditional methods.
Question 6: Which of the following materials should NOT be used for cosmetic repairs on a flexible plastic bumper cover due to a lack of flexibility and potential for adhesion failure?
- Two-part urethane adhesives designed for plastics.
- Adhesion promoter specifically formulated for plastic substrates.
- Standard body fillers or metal polyester glazes. (Correct answer)
- Flexible parts repair material.
Correct answer: Standard body fillers or metal polyester glazes.
Standard body fillers and metal glazes are rigid and were not designed for use on flexible plastic parts. Using them on a bumper cover will likely lead to cracking, delamination, and adhesion failure as the plastic flexes. Only fillers specifically designed for flexible plastics should be used.
I-CAR - Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair Certified Non-Structural Panel Repair Questions and Answers
A technician is preparing a repaired area on a steel door skin for primer.
After completing the body filler work and sanding it with 150-grit sandpaper, what is the next recommended step in the feather, prime, and block process according to industry standards?