Best Dog Training Tips & Tricks 2025

1. Personality needs – Since teaching people how to train their dogs is a common part of dog training, you should enjoy interacting with others. Additionally, it would be best if you had a passion for learning, patience, and the ability to adapt to different learning styles. 
2. Education – Although certification is available, there is no federal or state requirement to be a dog trainer at the moment. For more information about the field and potential certification, contact the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers. Trainers who have earned certification and hold the title CPDT are expected to maintain their status by regularly completing continuing education requirements. 
3. Finding a Job – After completing your apprenticeship, search for local training firms, shelters, or institutions seeking trainers. To find out if their techniques align with your own, inquire about their training philosophy and methodology. Last but not least, keep learning. To become the greatest dog trainer you can be, it’s critical to stay up to date on the most recent research and methods in the field of dog training.

1.  Keep Sessions Brief – Start with brief, rewarding sessions if you have a puppy or an adult who has never been trained to walk on a leash. To avoid tripping you as he sprints back and forth, teaching your dog to keep on one side is a good idea. 
2. Eliminate Pulling – If your dog already pulls on his leash, you need to persuade him of two things: Pulling won’t get him closer to his destination faster, and walking courteously will make you pleased enough to reward him. Try the “no forward progress” tugging strategy if you are training a puppy or if your adult dog is receptive and obedient to you. Alternatively, teach your dog that you will halt if he pulls you in the direction of something. Even though it could take a few days of short, leisurely walks, most dogs quickly learn that pulling slows down their progress rather than speeding it up. 
3. Teach Him to Walk by Your Side – Your dog must also be taught to walk by your side at all times. (The conventional side is on the left.) Your walk won’t be very enjoyable if he keeps weaving around you or running around in circles, and you risk tripping and hurting yourself or your dog. Follow these steps to make your dog aware of what you want if he frequently circles you or wanders back and forth: *Keep the length of your dog’s leash short enough to prevent him from simply straying from your side, modeling your desired behavior. But don’t make it so brief that you drag him along. Use small rewards to entice him to the proper location by your side simultaneously. You can indicate the behavior with a word or a clicker if you’d like. Stop tempting him when he begins to understand, but thank him for sticking by your side. Please give him a treat every few steps first, then extend the time between treats until he learns to follow you without them. As long as he doesn’t weave or circle, you can also give him a little more room to go.
4. Troubleshooting Typical Leash Issues -Instead of just stopping when he pulls, turn around and proceed in the opposite direction. You shouldn’t pull your dog, talk to, or wait for him. He is responsible for staying with you and paying attention to where you are.

1.  Start by encouraging your dog to make pleasant connections with the crate at their speed.
   ⇒ Put the crate in the kitchen, living room, or another common gathering place for the family.
   ⇒ Put the food inside the crate for meals and leave the door open while your dog eats.
   ⇒ Give your dog chew toys or stuffed food puzzle toys between meals so they may munch on them inside the crate with the door open. Return the item carefully to the crate if they take it somewhere else. 
2. Start desensitizing your dog to the closed door after they are comfortable eating within the crate.
   ⇒ When your dog is eating, shut the door. When the food is finished, open the door.
   ⇒ As soon as they have finished their breakfast, chew toy, or puzzle toy, start gradually lengthening the time you keep the door closed. The dog will determine how much you raise each day. Initially, some people will be able to endure an increase of 5–10 seconds every day. Some people might feel at ease increasing one or more minutes at a time.
   ⇒ Keep an eye out for your dog’s reaction. You ask for too much too soon if they start to complain, bark, or exhibit other symptoms of unhappiness. Back off and move more slowly. 
3. If your dog is still having trouble after a few weeks, apply some further desensitization training.
   ⇒ Lure your dog to the crate by tossing him a goodie inside. Immediately after closing the door for a brief period, open it once more to let your dog out of the crate. Repeat.
   ⇒ Lure your dog to the crate by tossing him a goodie inside. Allow your dog to leave the crate after closing the door for five seconds. Repeat.
   ⇒ Continue to extend your time in five- or ten-second increments. Increase the size of each increment as you advance. For instance, you can probably extend the next training session by at least two minutes for a dog who can safely spend 10 minutes in the crate.

As soon as you wake up, after breakfast, after supper, a few times throughout the day, and just before night, take her outside. If she refuses, take her back inside and put her in her crate right away for ten minutes before trying again. If she hasn’t urinated outside, don’t let her loose inside.

1. Desensitization – Sit with your dog and wait if you know what time the bike rider is coming down your block. Give your dog a treat and talk to them in reassuring tones when they are just coming into view. Reward them once more as they draw near. Stop giving your dog goodies once he starts to bark.
2. Use of Commands – In other words, keep using the look or command up until the dog gives up. Be consistent, calm, and patient. Others advise moving backward first before moving forward. In other words, you train your dog to bark when called. When teaching commands, treat-based training works well. When you instruct them to “talk,” you can reward them with a goodie. They will eventually learn to bark when called without the treat.
3. Removal of the Offending Object – The critters are hidden from their view by closing the windows or curtains and barring them from certain rooms. They won’t be barking at the squirrels if they can’t see them. 
4. Anti-Stress Devices – Pheromone technology, a herbal concoction that eases anxiety, are frequently used in stress-relieving collars. A dog that is stressed out or worried and barks a lot may benefit from wearing an anxiety wrap or jacket. These are currently being sold by several businesses and are easily accessible online and at pet stores. You can designate a space in your home, yard, or garage as a “safety zone” for your dog. They might feel safe and secure in a kennel with a bed, toys, and lots of water. 
5. Reduce Boredom – Tire them in the morning before you leave and in the evening when you get home. That could entail jogging or walking (all of which are beneficial forms of exercise) or 15 minutes of ball throwing. 
6. Dog Bark Spray Collar – Typically, citronella, an oil extract with a faint lemony scent, is used in spray collars. Most dogs don’t like the smell of the liquid mist and won’t turn on the collar when your dog barks, which uses it to distract them and stop them from barking more. 
7. Work with a Professional
   Hopefully, you can teach your dog to stop most barking tendencies with a little perseverance and time. However, there are always experts to turn to as the last option. You can find dog trainers, dog whisperers, dog psychologists, and canine massage therapists. You need to decide which is ideal for your circumstance and your dog.

Dog training classes typically cost between $30 to $80, with the majority spending around $50 per hour. Dog obedience courses range in price from $200 to $600 per week, and boot camps for kennel training cost $500 to $1,250.

1. Take your dog for frequent walks outside—at least every two hours—immediately after they wake up, during and after playtime, and after consuming food or liquids.
2. Select an outdoor restroom, and walk your puppy there on a leash every time. Utilize a specific word or phrase you can eventually use before your puppy goes to the bathroom to remind them what to do while they are going. 
3. Reward your dog each time they go potty outside. Treats or praise should be given immediately after they finish, not after they go back inside. This step is crucial since the only way to teach your dog what is expected of them is to praise them for going outside.
4. Establish a consistent feeding regimen for your puppy. A timetable determines what goes into and what comes out of a dog. Puppies may need to be fed twice or three times every day, depending on their age.
5. To lessen the probability that your puppy may need to go potty throughout the night, empty their water bowl around two and a half hours before bedtime. In the event that your puppy does awaken you in the middle of the night, don’t make a big deal out of it; otherwise, they’ll think it’s time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep.

1.  Determine whether Your Dog Can Be a Service Dog – You must first decide if your dog is capable of serving as a service dog before committing to the lengthy and demanding service dog training process. As a service dog owner, there are several things you should consider (the dog’s age, temperament, attention span, and any physical or mental restrictions). Before deciding to train your pet, these are crucial questions to get the answers to. The greatest service dogs are clever, calm, self-assured, young, and in good physical condition. They also respond well to commands.
2. Teach Them the Basics – Training a service dog or other animal to perform basic tasks isn’t particularly challenging.
   ⇒ The best approach to guarantee that your dog matures into a friendly and self-assured adult is through socialization. Ideal times for socialization are between 3 and 20 weeks of age.
   ⇒ In addition to teaching your dog to “go” on cue in proper locations, potty training is crucial for preventing accidents indoors.
   ⇒ Leash training is necessary for your dog to understand boundaries. Your dog should learn to concentrate on you rather than the surroundings when it’s acceptable. 
3. Eye Contact – You can ask a friend to attempt and divert the dog’s attention away from you, and you can reward the dog with goodies each time they pay attention to you for a certain period. To make sure that your dog maintains concentration, gradually increase the time.
4.  Off-Leash Training – To complete this phase, remove your dog’s leash (in a safe area) and encourage your pet to follow basic instructions just as you would while outside. Repeat this numerous times to ensure your dog understands what to do, and proceed cautiously outside into public areas when you feel confident. 
5. Specialize – They can keep eye contact with you and are calm and obedient on- and off-leash. They also know basic instructions like “sit” and “stay.” From there, depending on what you need their role to be, you will train them for various jobs.
   ⇒ Hearing service dogs must be trained to react to ringing fire alarms, doorbells, or phones. To achieve this, teach them to sit in front of you and carry out a particular activity each time the sound trigger occurs.
   ⇒ Mental health service When they spot symptoms of a panic attack or other psychiatric problems, animals warn their humans. You can use a fake panic or anxiety crisis to teach them; dogs, by nature, frequently approach and offer to assist.
   ⇒ Service dogs that assist with mobility benefit people with physical disabilities. These dogs can easily be trained by rewarding them when they bring anything when asked with a word.

Start giving your dog time-outs whenever you feel his fangs on your skin rather than just when he bites you hard. Give a loud yelp as soon as you feel your dog’s teeth contact you. The moment you say that, walk away from him. For 30 to 60 seconds, ignore him.

1.  DON’T REWARD YOUR DOG’S JUMPING UP BEHAVIOR.
   ⇒ The moment your dog jumps up, you must turn away. Although it could seem redundant at times, consistency is crucial. If you decide to give them food as a reward, wait until all four of their paws are on the ground before giving them a treat or scattering some goodies to get their attention. 
2. EVERYONE YOUR DOG MEETS CAN HELP THEM STOP JUMPING UP
   ⇒ This goes for members of the family as well as individuals they encounter when out and about. You can use a long line to prevent your dog from getting the chance to practice jumping up at people in public spaces like the park (10m long lead.) If you spot someone in the distance, fasten the long line to your dog’s harness and use it to call your pet back to you. When your dog behaves responsibly and calmly, you should praise them. That way, your dog will be under control and more likely to concentrate on what you ask them (such as a sit).
3. DIVERT THEIR ATTENTION IF YOUR DOG IS FRUSTRATED 
   ⇒  If your dog is becoming agitated and continues to jump up while being ignored, ask for more positive behavior that they are familiar with, like a “sit.” Treats or attention should be given to your dog when it sits. Try to get your dog to sit before introducing them to someone, and ask the person to hold off on saying hi until they do. Ask for the calm behavior and keep ignoring the jumping up behavior. 
4. MAKE THEM WAIT TO GREET PEOPLE WHILE KEEPING THEM ON A LEAD
   ⇒ You can use a long line when you’re out and about in a park and a houseline to do the same thing inside your home. A 2 m long, lightweight lead is called a houseline. Keep your dog in a different room or behind a baby gate while guests arrive. Bring your dog into the room on the house line once the guests have settled in and become a little less interesting for your dog. Ask your dog to sit as they welcome the guests, rewarding them with treats to keep their attention on you. As usual, see to it that they receive praise for doing appropriately.

1. Hold some of your puppy’s dog food or treats out in front of him. 
2. As soon as he sits, say “yes” and reward him with a treat.
3. After encouraging him to stand, take a backward or sideways step and wait for him to sit. 
4. As soon as they settle, give them another goodie. 
5. After a few times, you can start saying “sit” as soon as he settles down.

1. Consult a veterinarian – Dogs who don’t typically display aggressive behavior but do so abruptly may have an underlying medical condition. 2 Aggression-inducing medical conditions include hypothyroidism, excruciating wounds, and neurological conditions like encephalitis, epilepsy, and brain tumors. If your dog exhibits this behavior, discuss it with your veterinarian. Your dog’s behavior may significantly improve with treatment or medication. 
2. Contact an Expert – If your veterinarian has ruled out a medical issue, it’s time to contact a qualified dog trainer or animal behaviorist. Your dog may be aggressive, and a professional may help you identify the source of the hostility and develop a management strategy. 
3. Develop a Plan – A behaviorist or trainer can assist you in determining the most effective strategy for controlling your dog’s aggression. Positive reinforcement is typically used to teach your dog new actions. As your dog starts associating strangers with rewards, you should notice a decline in hostility. Your dog can become accustomed to various other settings using the same method. For instance, if your dog is hostile toward strangers, start by standing a long way away from them. Your distance from your dog should be sufficient to prevent growling or snapping. As you gradually close the gap between your dog and the stranger, continue to employ positive reinforcement by rewarding with plenty of treats and praise. 
4. Refrain from Punishment – Punishing your dog for acting aggressively frequently backfires and worsens the hostility. 3 A dog may need to defend itself by biting you if you hit, yell at, or react angrily to a growling dog. As a result of punishment, your dog can suddenly bite another person. For instance, a dog that growls at kids tries to tell you that he doesn’t feel safe around them. If you spank a dog for snarling at you, he might not warn you the next time he feels uneasy—instead, he might bite. 
5. Think About Medication – Aggressive dogs may also require medication to assist manage the issue. It’s crucial to realize that a stressed, afraid, or anxious dog cannot learn new things. 
6. Handle Unavoidable Situations – You should consider whether your way of life allows you to follow through with a strategy. For instance, it would be impossible to avoid a situation where your dog would act aggressively against your children if you have both a dog and children. Finding a new home with adults might be the best course of action for you and your dog in this circumstance.

1.  House-Training Routine -Very early in the morning -After he eats -After play -After he awakens from a longer nap -Every two to three hours -Right before bed
2. The Four Golden Rules of Housebreaking – Don’t leave your dog alone unless in a dog-proofed room or crate until he is completely housebroken.
   ⇒ Leash up your dog frequently. At first, take him for two-hour walks. Take your dog outside immediately if you observe him sniffing and circling inside.
   ⇒ When he ventures outside, compliment him and give him a treat. Remember that the length of time your dog can hold it depends on his size. The shorter the dog is expected to go between toilet breaks, the smaller he is
3. If you observe your dog committing an error. Without being too harsh, interrupt him (“Ah! Ah! Let’s go outside!” and hurried him out to finish. If he completes it there, congratulate and honor him. Interrupting is more crucial than punishing.

1. Get their attention by giving them treats
   ⇒ If a dog has trouble hearing, you can’t just call its name or open a bag of treats to get its attention. Instead, find a place in your home where you won’t be interrupted. Sit on the floor in front of your dog with lots of tasty treats that your dog loves. Wait for them to look at you, then give them a treat. Give them another treat if they stay close and look you in the eye. After you’ve done it a few times, move to a different part of the room. Please wait for your dog to come up and look at you, and then give them a treat immediately. Your dog should be paying close attention after a few minutes. 
2. Teach them a marker signal that means they’ll get a treat
   ⇒ In clicker training, they teach the dog that they will get a treat when they hear a click. The click is a marker that tells you when something happens. When a treat follows that mark, the learner knows what they did right to get the treat. Click equals treat. Make sure your dog looks at you, then give it a thumbs up and a treat. Repeat this pattern until your dog gets excited when you give him a thumbs up. Now that this link has been made, you can start teaching your dog cues.
3. Use luring to teach them cues
   ⇒ You can help a deaf dog learn skills and tricks you want them to know by using luring. This is called luring when you use a treat or hand motion that your dog follows. For a basic command like “sit,” make sure your dog is paying attention, hold a treat in front of their nose and slowly raise it over their head. Your dog will probably follow the treat’s sight and smell, which will cause them to sit so they can see and smell it better. Please give them a treat as soon as they sit and give them a thumbs up to show that you like what they did. 
4. Teach them cues by “capturing” them
   ⇒ When training a dog, we can “capture” behaviors they do on their own by marking the moment they do it and then giving them a treat right away. For example, you can use capturing to teach your dog the command “down” if it doesn’t already know it. Wait for your dog to be in a position to lay down. As soon as they do it, please give them a treat and a thumbs-up. After a few times, you can add a simple hand signal, like pointing your finger to the ground or lowering an open hand to the floor, to tell your dog when to lay down. Make sure that this signal differs from the one you use as a marker. Wait until your dog is just about to lay down on its own. Give your hand signal as soon as you see the ship moving down. Mark them and give them a treat when they are all the way down.

1. Start training your dog away from other dogs.
   ⇒ Before adding other dogs to the mix, you’ll want to ensure you can get your dog’s attention when there are no other distractions. Start your training at home or in a private yard that you can close off if you have one. 
2. Train your dog to pay attention to you.
   ⇒ The most important part of this step is teaching your dog a command that tells them to look at you. Once your dog pays attention to you, you can tell it to do anything else. To teach your dog this command, you’ll need to praise them when they look at you. Holding a treat up to your face will do the trick. When your dog looks at you, give them a treat and a lot of praise. 
3. Teach Your Dog How to Walk Politely on a Leash
   ⇒ To teach your dog how to walk nicely on a leash, just tell it to pay attention to you as you walk. When you walk your dog, keep the leash tight so that the dog stays close to you. Keep a small bag of treats on you and give your dog one every few minutes. This will keep your dog close to you and look at you for treats. 
4. Practice with distractions
   ⇒ Now that you know how to get your dog’s attention and that they can walk nicely on a loose leash, you can practice your training around distractions. Take your dog for walks in different places to do this. Make sure you have different ways to walk your dog that take you through different places so they can get used to all kinds of distractions.

1.  You have to teach the dog what the clicker or other marker means before you can use it. Pairing your chosen marker with a reward is sometimes called “loading the clicker.” So, click and then treat right away. After 10–20 times, your dog will figure out that the marker means a treat is coming. 
2. You can use your marker for lure-and-reward training, in which you use a treat to get your dog to do what you want. But it can also be used to change how people act. Shaping is the process of building up a complicated behavior in small steps. The clicker is a great way to reward good behavior as well. So, if you see your dog lying quietly on a mat instead of begging at the table, click and reward that behavior. Or, if your dog is sitting with all four paws on the floor when the doorbell rings, click before your dog can jump on your guests. Lastly, clicker training is an excellent way to teach tricks.
3. You won’t need the marker once your dog learns the new behavior. After all, it’s just a way to teach. But if you want to lure, shape, or catch a behavior, the clicker or another marker will help you tell your dog what you want, so you’ll get that behavior.

1. Cut up a bunch of tasty treats into small pieces. Start walking around a large room or up and down a hallway inside the house.
2. Call your dog’s name and show him where you want him to go (whichever side you choose, but the left is on the traditional heel side).
3. Use a clicker or say “yes” when your dog comes close to you, and then give it a treat. Do this several times, then stop calling him and pointing to your side. Let your dog come up to you on his own.
4. When your dog gets into place, mark it and give it a treat.
5. Soon, you’ll have to speed up, turn, or zigzag to “lose” him so he can find his position again. Start adding eye contact (“Look” or “Watch Me”) as he gets better at this.

1.  Ask your dog to lie down. 
2. Show your dog a sign with your hand, like a “stop” sign with your palm facing your dog.
3. Don’t give the treat to your dog right away. Wait a few seconds. Tell them to “stay,” and then give it to them. It’s important to treat your dog while still lying down and not after it’s gotten up.
4. Do this many times in short but regular sessions, gradually increasing the time your dog stays in the down position.
5. After that, you can move farther away from your dog. Before rewarding them, start by moving back just one step. Then, slowly and gradually, move back more and more. 
6. Practice in many different places, like around the house, in the garden, at a friend’s house, and in the local park.

1.  Go out and buy a bell. (It’s better if it’s louder. Instead of a small wind chime, think of a cowbell or sleigh bell.)
2. Attach the bell to your dog’s outdoor bathroom door with a ribbon. Your dog’s nose should be at or just below the level of the bell.
3. When it’s time to go outside, gently swing the bell, so it taps your dog’s nose. 
4. Give the dog praise immediately, and then open the door.
5. 5. Do steps 3 through 4 every time your dog goes outside for the next week.
6. On the eighth day, move the bell gently, so it stops jiggling right in front of your dog’s nose. You can move on if your dog sticks out her nose to touch the bell. If not, you can try steps 3 and 4 again after a day or two. A day or two, if necessary. 
7. When it’s time to ring the bell, help your dog less and less each time. By the 14th day, you’ll probably be able to stand at the door and wait for your dog to ring the bell on her own.

1. Set the collar to beep or tone. Always start with the lowest setting and move up if you need to. 
2. Press the button on the remote to turn on the collar, then give the dog a treat.
   ⇒ This will teach your dog that the collar means good things.
   ⇒ Do this 10 to 20 times. Do this for 5 minutes at different times during the week. 
3. Teach people how to obey
   Pay attention to you in exchange for treats, and you can use this to get them to stop doing other things. Follow the steps below to teach your dog any trick or skill you want. We suggest that you start with the 6 basic commands.
   ⇒ Command
   ⇒ Dog ignores you because they are overly excited (e.g., jumping on someone, barking, squirrels!)
   ⇒ Trigger the collar to get your dog’s attention
   ⇒ Repeat command
   ⇒ Dog does the command or a small step towards it
   ⇒ Treat or Praise

1. Let your dog or puppy meet new people, places, things, and surfaces.
2. Get your dog a title from the AKC called “Canine Good Citizen.” Train behaviors like “leave it,” “watch me,” “loose leash walking,” and “four on the floor,” which means don’t jump on people.
3. Think about getting the AKC Advanced Canine Good Citizen (AKC Community Canine) title to practice CGC test items in a real-world setting. Or the Urban CGC if you live in or plan to go to a city. 
4. Sign your dog up for a therapy dog class. This will help you and your dog get ready to visit people. At the end of many classes, there is an evaluation of the dog’s skills as a therapy dog.
5. Once you’ve passed the test, sign up with a national therapy dog group so you can start visiting people and making them happy. But it’s up to you to keep up with your dog’s training and ensure that they are the best therapy dog they can be.

1.  Choose a potty pad that is absorbent, easy to clean, and big enough for your puppy’s messes. Compared to toy breeds, big dogs may need more durable options. You can use newspapers, paper towels, cloth towels, pee pads from the store, or indoor/outdoor carpet potty stations.
2. Get your puppy used to the potty pads. Let your puppy walk on the pad while you say a consistent command, like “go potty,” that you will say when it’s time to go potty. 
3. Try to guess when your puppy will need to go potty. When potty training your puppy, you’ll need to keep it close so you can guess when it needs to go. 
4. Reward Your Puppy: If your puppy goes to the bathroom on its potty pad, praise it immediately. 
5. Be consistent. Make sure your puppy has a routine. This will help you know when your puppy might need to go to the bathroom. Once your puppy knows what to do on the potty pad, you can slowly move it closer to the door or outside, where you want your puppy to go to the bathroom without using it.
6. Mistakes to avoid when training: Don’t let your puppy pull or chew on the potty pad, eat or play on it. This might make it hard for your puppy to figure out the potty pad’s point. 
7. Problems and Proofing Behavior: If you can’t keep an eye on your puppy and it has accidents when you’re not looking, try the following:
   Put a bell on the dog’s collar to help you find it.
   ⇒ Leave the puppy’s leash on so it can drag it behind it. This will make a sort of path for you to follow.
   ⇒ Think about putting your puppy to sleep in a crate or exercise pen, which may make it whine if it needs to go potty because dogs don’t like to go potty where they sleep.
   ⇒ Talk to your vet about possible problems that some puppies are known to have if your puppy seems to be peeing all the time.

1.  To get your dog to come back, you need to give it a reason. This could be a really tasty treat or a fun game with a toy. Display the toy or food for your dog. 
2. Run away a few steps, then call your dog’s name and say “come” in a friendly, excited voice. Getting low can also help them come back.
3. When your dog comes to you, hold its collar gently and either give it the treat or let it play with the toy.
4. Gradually move farther away from your dog until you can eventually call it in and out of the garden or from room to room. 
5. Ask a friend or partner to help you take turns holding your dog’s collar gently while the other person walks away and calls the dog. (Don’t forget to praise the dog every time this works.) 
6. Once your dog always comes when you call it in the house and garden, you can start practicing in safe places outside. When you are practicing recalling your dog outside, long training leads can be helpful because they give your dog some freedom without giving them full freedom at this stage.

1.  Getting Your Dog’s Health Checked: Have a vet check your dog’s digestive system. A small number of poop-eating dogs have health problems that cause them to act in strange ways. If a dog doesn’t have enough digestive enzymes, it might want to eat its poop because it can’t digest its food properly and wants to get those important nutrients back. 
2. Stop people from getting to cat poop: Move the litter box. Sometimes the best way to help your dog is to take away the chance for it to act badly. Keeping this in mind, but the cat’s litter box in a room that the dog can’t get to if you can. Think about putting a child’s gate in front of the door so the cat can jump over it, but the dog can’t get through.
3. Teach the dog to stop doing something by being gentle. Be aware that swooping in and picking up the cat poop as the dog is about to do it can backfire. It just makes more people want to eat the poop. Train the dog to leave the cat’s poop alone and tell it to “go away.” One way to do this is to hold a treat in your fist and let the dog sniff it, but don’t give it to the dog. Say “come away” and give the dog a treat when it stops sniffing the closed fist and turns its head away (not the one in the fist). Don’t ever hit the dog. Never rub the dog’s face in its poop, and never hurt the dog physically or verbally. The dog’s actions may be annoying and gross, but if you want to change them, you must act strategically. If you yell and look angry, the dog will only learn to be afraid of you and do things behind your back.

1. Show your dog the bell or button you want to use, and let your dog check it out to ensure it’s not something your dog will be afraid of. If your dog is interested in the bell or button, give it a treat and a reward.
2. Put the bell or button near the door you most often use to let your dog out to go to the bathroom. Press or ring the bell every time you take your dog outside. If you do this enough times, your dog will learn that when the bell rings, it’s time to go outside. You have to use the bell or button every time you take your dog outside if you want to improve this skill. 
3. Dogs always watch us and learn from what we do. If your dog sees you ring the bell before going outside, they might figure out that the bell means it’s time to go outside. Keep doing this until your dog rings the bell without you telling it to. If your dog rings the bell, praise it a lot and take it outside right away.

Most people think the Border Collie is the smartest and easiest to train a dog because it has good instincts and can work well. They are very active and like to work, so they need owners who can keep them busy and give them a lot of exercise and things to do. Collies do well at obedience and agility, which are dog sports.

It’s a real possibility. Litter box training is a way to teach certain breeds of dogs how to use the bathroom inside. Like you can train a cat to use the litter box, you can train a dog to do the same thing.

The domesticated goat is smart and curious, showing he can be trained as a working animal. It makes sense that you can teach a smart animal to use the bathroom just like a dog. 

Sometimes it’s easier to train an adult dog than a puppy because they can focus more and control themselves better. Older dogs can be a little more set in their ways, but you can train a dog of any age.

Most puppies are fully housetrained in four to six months, but some may take up to a year. Size can be a sign of something. Smaller breeds, for example, have smaller bladders and faster metabolisms, so they need to go outside more often. The way your puppy lived before is another indicator.

1.  Put on a glove that protects your hand and your whole arm. This is a necessary safety measure to keep people from getting hurt. 
2. Sit your dog down. If you haven’t already taught it simple commands like “come,” “sit,” “stop,” “run,” and “stand,” you should do that before you teach it “attack.”
3. After putting the dog down, tap it in the face with the glove on your arm. This is a way to annoy the dog and see how long it can wait. Keep doing this until your dog gets mad and bites the glove. 
4. When the dog goes after the glove, say “attack” out loud. You are doing this because you want your dog to know what it means to say “attack.” 
5. Tell the dog how good it is or show it another way. Even though it might not be necessary, give your dog some cookies or treats as a reward. But if your dog is usually motivated by food and learns faster when you give it treats, you should give it some. 
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until you are sure your dog knows what “attack” means. You will know this if your dog attacks your gloved arm as soon as it hears the “attack” command. 
7. Stand a short distance from your dog and tell it to “attack.” See what it does. If it doesn’t, do steps 3 through 5 many times. But if it attacks, that shows that it knows what to do. 
8. Take a break and give the dog another treat for following your command.
9. Steps 7 and 8 should be done five to seven more times again. This is to make sure that your dog has learned the command.
10.  Now it’s time to show the dog how to attack an intruder. Get a big doll or draw a person’s caricature and put it far away. Then point at the “fake” intruder and shout, “attack!” Your dog may try to come toward you at first, but once it sees your finger, it will go in the direction you point. 
11. Give your dog treats or something else as a reward. Repeat step 10 by putting the fake intruder in different places and pointing at it every time you tell your dog to do something. Repeat this until you’re sure your dog knows the command and won’t chase after your arm anymore.
12. Have someone pretend to be a burglar (use someone whose face is unfamiliar to the dog). Tell the person to stand by the door and be ready to close it if the dog doesn’t stop when told to.
13. Point your dog toward the “intruder” and tell it to attack. If it runs toward the intruder, it knows what you want it to do.
14. Repeat step 13, but this time shout “stop” while the dog goes after the intruder to see if it will listen. If you’ve taught the “stop” command, it should stop as soon as you say it. This step is very important because it teaches your dog that you may not always want to attack an intruder after giving the initial command.

1. How to Choose a Service Dog
   Start with the right breed of dog if you want it to be a service dog. Some dogs don’t have the right attitude to do such an important and difficult job. Psychiatric Service Dog Partners says that when picking a puppy for service work, you should look for these traits:
   ⇒ Social and quick to greet people
   ⇒ Does not scare easily
   ⇒ Follows
   ⇒ Wants to be held
   ⇒ Alert 
2. Decide what the dog will do 
   When you get your puppy, you should consider what you want it to do for you. This will help you train it. Once this is clear, you can start getting to know your puppy. This gives your dog a baseline for knowing when you are calm and starting to feel anxious. Dogs are very intuitive so the right dog will pick up on this independently. 
3. Learn how to get along with other people and animals.
   When you get a puppy, it’s important to keep up the socialization. You don’t want a dog that gets scared or stressed whenever it meets something new. 
4. Teach your dog the basics of training and good behavior.
   Some of these skills are “Sit,” “Stay,” “Drop,” “Heel,” “Leave,” and “Come.” 
5. Work on your service dog’s public access skills.
   Once your service dog-in-training has learned the basic commands, you can start working on public access skills. Use places like pet stores, outdoor cafes, etc., that allow pets to help your dog get used to the noise and activity of public places. 
6. Training for Individual Response 
   It could be difficult to train a dog to warn a person before they have a panic attack, but if you have a close relationship with your dog, they may be able to tell by the way you move and, if you are really scared, by the way, your body chemistry changes. Cuddling your dog close is a great way to relax when you’re feeling stressed and gives the dog a chance to learn your “tell” signs. Because of this, it is very important to find the right breed and personality for your service dog.

1.  Get Rid of Extra Energy: When your dog is excited, all he wants to do is run around and get rid of all that pent-up energy. He won’t be able to listen to you. So, don’t forget to exercise first, be disciplined, and show love. 
2. Be consistent. If you tell your dog different things about how he should act, he won’t know what you want him to do. That’s also true if different people in the family have different rules. Set aside time as a family to discuss the rules, limits, and boundaries you want to set for your dog.
3. Be in charge of your energy. Dogs follow the pack’s leader; you can only be that leader if you have calm, confident energy. When you give a command, your dog won’t listen to you if you’re in a hurry or unsure what to do. 
4. Go back to the basics. Some dogs need hundreds or even thousands of times to learn something new. Practice helps you get better. You might need to train your dog again to ensure he knows what to do. 
5. Don’t rely on verbal commands. Dogs don’t talk; they use energy and body language to talk to each other. Even if they know how to do something, they may remember it better if you show them something simultaneously.

1. Start by chasing.
   Tell your dog to go after the thing you want him to bring back. When he gets it, give him his preferred motivator and then take the object away. Do this several times, and then throw the object a short distance. When he does it, give him another reward right away. Repeat the process until you can reliably throw the object and get him to chase it.
2. Give Her More Motivation
   Try holding her back after she throws the toy. She will naturally try to pull against you, especially if you talk to her and try to keep her back. Once you finally let go, she’ll be like a rocket going after the object. 
3. Retrieving
   After your dog chases the object, the next step is to get him to bring it back to you. Once he has “caught” the first one, show him the second and throw it in the opposite direction. He probably won’t bring the first toy with him, but it will get him used to running back to you when he catches something. When he gets good at this, call him back to you while holding the object and tell him to drop it. If you show him the second thing, he’ll probably drop the first thing after the second one. He will eventually learn that you will throw it again if he comes back to you and drops the object.
4. Avoiding “Keep Away.”
   Once she has the object, wiggle the line and pull it toward you or run away from your dog with it. This should make her want to go with you. Even if she doesn’t, bring the rope back and praise her when she gets close, then throws the object again and do it again. If you do this for a few weeks, your dog should naturally come to you. 
5. Getting the Object Back
   If your dog stops and drops the object before reaching you, back away and say “All the way” or “Bring it.” Once he gets to where you were before, go to him and praise him, then throw the object again. If he doesn’t let go, tell him to drop it and put a treat in front of his nose. Most dogs will drop the object to go after the treat. 
6. Choose something your dog will like
   Your dog won’t chase something she doesn’t want, so try different things (balls, Frisbees, sticks) until you find one she’s interested in.

•  Sit your dog down and hold a treat in one hand. Move your hand from the dog’s nose to its chest and straight down to the floor.
• Your dog should lie down after following the treat. Praise them and give them the treat right away. 
• Do this several times in short, regular sessions.
• When your dog follows the treat easily into the down position, you can start saying “down” as your dog gets into the position. 
• Do this several times in short, regular sessions. 
• Give treats to your dog while he is lying down. This will make him stay down longer.

1. Take your puppy outside often at least every two hours and right after they wake up, play, eat, or drink. 
2. Pick a place outside for your puppy to go to the bathroom, and always take your puppy (on a leash) there. Use a certain word or phrase while your puppy goes to the bathroom that you can use before they go to remind them what to do. 
3. Reward your dog every time it goes to the bathroom outside. Praise or give them treats, but do it right away, not when they get back inside. This step is important because giving your dog a treat when they go outside is the only way to teach them what you want them to do. Make sure they’re done before you reward them. 
4. Feed your dog at the same time every day.
   Puppies may need to be fed twice or three times a day, depending on how old they are. If you feed your dog at the same time every day, they’re more likely to go to the bathroom at the same time every day, too. 
5. Get your puppy’s water bowl. Most dogs can sleep for about seven hours without going to the bathroom. Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk or play with your puppy, and take it outside to where it goes to the bathroom. Then put it back to bed.

1. Learn the basic commands for hunting with your dog. Dogs are pack animals that follow a hierarchy. Being the family’s leader reinforces your dog’s instincts when you train it. Positive reinforcement will make training fun for your dog and make them feel happy and safe. Some simple commands are:
   “Come”: Tie one end of a 25-foot dog check cord to your dog’s collar. Hold the other end in your hand and move away 10 steps. Just say, “come.” If the dog doesn’t move, pull the leash toward you and repeat the command. When they do what you say, please give them a treat and tell them how good they are right away. As your dog learns to listen and respond better, slowly let them off the leash so they can learn to come when called from far away. “Sit”: Hold a dog treat in one hand and say “sit” while pushing down on the dog’s backside with the other. When your dog sits and listens, give them a treat. “Heel” means to walk on your left side with your dog on a leash. This is a good way to show that you are the pack’s leader. When your dog runs ahead of you, say “heel” and pull on the leash to get them to come back to you. When they do, give them a treat. 
2. Give your dog hunting games to play
   Before you go on your first hunt, show your hunting partner the sights, sounds, and smells they’ll encounter in the field. This will help them feel more comfortable with what they’ll see, hear, and smell. Let your dog run around and check out the wildlife, land, and waterways to get used to the area. 
3. Show your dog gunfire in a safe way
   In order to train a gun dog puppy, you’ll need to make sure that the sound of gunfire means that the dog will get a treat if it brings you game. To get your dog used to gunfire in a way that won’t scare them, have a friend stand 90 yards away with a starter pistol that shoots blanks. Get your dog to chase after a toy. Tell your friend to fire a round, and keep an eye on how your puppy acts. If the sound doesn’t scare them away and they keep playing, have your friend move closer to them by 15 yards at a time. If your dog seems scared, have your friend try again until your dog is used to the sound.
4. Spend money on hunting dog training gear
   Some tools and equipment will help training go better. A clicker, whistles, and dummies are a few things to consider. The purpose of each one depends on what kind of hunting you do and what your pup needs to learn.

• Step 1
  Attach a leash to the collar around the dog’s neck. Even though you want the dog to be able to walk without a leash, starting his training with a leash keeps him under control and boosts his confidence. Choose a flat collar with a buckle and a 6-foot training leash that is flat and smooth. Choke collars and chain leads may look nice, but they can hurt your dog if you don’t use them correctly, but if you don’t use them right, they can hurt your dog.
• Step 2:
  Teach the dog how to say “watch me.” This command teaches the dog to look at your face and watch your eyes, which is important for keeping the dog’s attention when you start working with the dog off-leash. Call the dog’s name and put a treat close to his nose. Say “look at me” and hold the treat up to your eyes. As soon as the dog looks at you and looks up, give him the treat. As they give the treat, many trainers will also say “yes” or click a clicker to show that the dog has done what they want. Ask the dog to “watch me” a lot during training until he looks at you when you give him a command.
• Step 3
  Stand with your left side to the dog and tell him to sit. Hold a treat in your left hand and put it over the dog’s head as you say “sit.” Whether you have a leash or not, the sit is an important part of walking. The sit is a key part of walking with or without a leash. You are teaching the dog to stop moving forward when you stop moving and stay in the right heeling position. To do this right, he must be paying attention to you. At first, you should be happy if he shows that he knows how to sit when you stop. As training continues, you can change how he sits, how quickly he sits, and how well he stays in heel position with his shoulder next to your left knee and his eyes on you by giving or withholding treats.
• Step 4
  Walk a few steps forward and lure the dog with the promise of a treat. Slowly come to a stop and tell the dog to sit again as you stop. Give him the treat when his back legs are firmly on the ground. Repeat the walking process until the dog sits quickly when you stop without being told to.
• Step 5:
  Try to get the dog to walk next to you. Just out of his reach, hold a treat in your left hand. Say “heel” or “walk,” and then take a few quick steps forward. Talk in a happy, upbeat tone and hold the treat so he can smell it but not get it. Stop slowly, give him the treat when he sits down, and praise him for staying put. Repeat the exercise, adding turns until the dog moves easily with you every time you say “heel” and stays in the perfect position and pace. There is a difference between walking next to you with his mind at ease and heeling. When your dog is heeling, he is paying attention to you and trying to follow you like a dance partner. He can’t go off leash if he doesn’t have a very clear idea of how to move with you and do what you tell him to do.
• Step 6:
  Take the leash off and tell the dog to “watch me.” Once the dog looks at you, say “heel” in a happy voice and move forward. If the dog stops moving or moves too slowly, say “heel” again and hold a treat out to him. Walk quickly forward until the dog keeps a steady pace and is in the right heel position. Reward him for that, and then come to a stop. When the dog sits, give him a treat. Rewarding the dog when he stays in the right place, moving, or coming to a stop is important. If you slow down or give him a treat when he wanders, he’ll learn that he can go where he wants when the leash is off.
• Step 7
  When the dog can heel perfectly on a leash, go to a dog park or training club often. Make sure the dog isn’t distracted by doing a few practice heels on the leash. Then, find a quiet spot, bring the dog to a stop, and take the leash off. Say the dog’s name to get his attention, tell him to “heel,” and then move forward. Give him a treat and lots of praise if he moves with you and stays focused during the whole exercise. If he moves toward another dog or walks away, put the leash back on him immediately and bring him back. The dog is not yet ready to run free. Before you do the off-leash exercise again, make sure your dog is focused and does the on-leash work perfectly. It would be best if you never let your dog walk away from you while doing something else. If you do, he will learn that walking away is okay.
• Step 8:
  Do everything you did with the dog on a leash again with him off the leash until he does it perfectly. You may reach a point where you don’t need a leash because your dog is so good off-leash, whether it’s a heel or not. Still, it would be best if you always had a leash when training your dog or walking around with it. You should always be ready to put the leash on his collar if you need to. And know the rules about leashes. No matter how sure your dog will obey, these rules still stand.

•  Dog on a chain
  Now is the time to put your dog’s leash on him and take him for a walk. 
• On your way
  As you walk your dog, try to introduce him to “safe” people calmly by letting him get close enough to them so they can pet him. This will help him figure out who he can trust to come close to you. 
• Show him what to watch for
  As you walk, if you see someone you think might be dangerous and your dog starts to walk toward them, give their leash a gentle pull. This will let him know that the person could be dangerous and that it is his job to keep you safe from people like that.
• Keep working at it
  You need to do this step repeatedly with different people until your dog moves to protect you on his own when he thinks it’s necessary. 
• Now it’s the child’s turn.
  Now it’s time to take a walk with your child. This time, if it’s safe, let your child hold the leash. Have them repeat the same steps you used to train them. Your dog should move automatically to guard your child. Your dog will also learn to watch out for the kids playing in the yard from this training.

This certificate of training costs between $3,400 and $4,100, which covers tuition, fees, and materials.

1.  Exercise is your best friend. Take a long walk with your dog, play a vigorous game of fetch, or do whatever you need to tire out your pup. 
2. Make the crate more inviting. The best way to start is to buy a good crate mat. This gives your dog a cozy place to lie down, which makes it more likely that they’ll fall asleep instead of doing something bad. Dogs often get separation anxiety because they miss their owner, so throw in dirty clothes. This makes it smell like you, which should make your dog feel better. 
3. Give them something to do. You should switch out their toys often to keep them from getting bored, and you should keep a separate set of toys just for the crate. This makes them valuable, and the fact that they can be played with makes staying in the crate a much better idea.
4. Teach them to expect your departure and return. Give them a command that tells them you’re leaving and another command that you’re coming back. This can be anything, like “I’ll be right back!” or “I’m home!” Once they know that the first command is part of a pair, they’ll spend more time waiting for the second order than freaking out about the possibility that you’ll never come home again.
5. When you get home, don’t pay attention to them for a few minutes before calmly petting them. This shows that your comings and goings aren’t important enough to worry about. As a bonus, it will teach them how to act when people come to visit.
6. Use gradual desensitization. You may need a pet camera and a stopwatch to do this. The first time you do this, you’ll leave the house while watching your dog through the camera. Time how long it takes for your dog to show signs of anxiety after you leave. No matter how long it takes, that’s how far apart they can be.
7. Take care of your departure cues. As part of your desensitization training, you can use a few of these cues to try to make them less powerful. Your dog needs to learn that grabbing your briefcase is not the world’s end. Don’t work on more than one departure cue at once. This keeps your dog from getting too stressed out and lets you know which cues bother them the most.
8. Make sure that everyone who lives in the house gets a chance to train, ensure everyone gets a chance to train. If only one person does it, the dog will think it’s okay only when that person leaves, and it will get scared whenever someone else in the family leaves.
9. If All Else Fails, Consult Your Vet – Some dogs are more anxious by nature than others. You may want to talk to your vet about giving your dog medicine to help with its anxiety.Your vet will know better if your dog needs medicine and which would be best for them. Some pills and diffusers can be bought over-the-counter, but they don’t work either and are best for dogs with mild to moderate problems. 
10. Think about getting help from outside. If you have to leave your dog alone for hours at a time, you might want to hire a dog walker or look into a doggy daycare service. So, your dog will get the interaction and exercise they need, and they won’t feel like you’ve left them every time you leave the house.
11. Don’t punish your dog no matter what. Stay calm and show a little compassion. Remember that they’re upset because they miss you; the last thing you want to do is punish them for that.

• Start slowly. Let your dog sniff the muzzle first to get him used to it.
  ⇒ Leave the muzzle where the dog can see it.
  ⇒ Give your dog food right next to its nose.
  ⇒ Place treats near the dog’s nose
• Move on to the fitting stage once your dog starts to associate the muzzle with good things:
  ⇒ Hold the muzzle in your hand and touch it to the dog’s nose. Repeat more than once.
  Next, put the muzzle on the nose of your dog. While your dog is still calm, take it away. Repeat. If the muzzle is soft, you can put a treat in it and let your dog sniff and lick it out. You can put peanut butter or cheese in a basket muzzle and let your dog sniff and lick it out.
• Once your dog uses the muzzle, secure and adjust the straps. Give your dog treats while it has the muzzle on. You can spread peanut butter or cheese on a tongue depressor for the fabric muzzle. The treat should still be good enough for your dog to lick. After giving your dog a treat, take the muzzle off calmly. 
• Gradually increase the amount of time the dog spends in the muzzle (15 seconds, 30 seconds, 45 seconds, etc.).
  ⇒ Keep giving your dog treats as long as the muzzle is on.
  ⇒ If you’re using a basket muzzle to train your dog in public, don’t go out until you’re sure your dog has gotten used to it.
  ⇒ It’s best to start in places you know for a short time.
  ⇒ You may need to go back a step when you train in new places. Continue to praise your dog for being good with the muzzle.
  ⇒ Before going to the vet, it may be best to muzzle your dog. If you use a basket muzzle, you can put it on at home before you leave. If you want to use a soft muzzle, wait until you get there and are in the parking lot to put it on.

• Start practicing your memory in an easy place. Some puppies are too excited even to go outside. You can practice in your hallway or living room.
• Give your dog a treat and take a few steps backward. Give him the treat and give him a call. 
• Give your dog a treat and then run away. Don’t move too quickly, or he might give up and not come. It would help if you always made it easy for your dog to catch you.
• Take your game to more and more places over time.
• Make sure you always give your dog a tasty treat for coming.

• Have your dog sit down in the same way as shown above. 
• Show him the treat and put it just out of reach, above his head. 
• Give the “jump” command in a firm, friendly voice. This time, jump with him as he tries to reach the treat and keep it at the same height. This tells your dog what you want him to do. 
• When he gets the treat, give it and give him lots of praise.
• You don’t have to jump every single time. Once your dog knows what you want him to do, try holding the treat higher and giving him the “jump” command without actually jumping.

•  Tell your dog to “down” right before you.
• Kneel next to your dog and hold a small treat near their nose on the side of their head. 
• Move your hand from their nose to their shoulder to get them to roll over on their side. 
• Do this a few times, and each time they follow the treat and lie on their side with their head on the floor, praise them and give them a treat. 
• Once they are lying flat, move your hand, holding a treat, from their shoulder to their spine. This should make them roll over onto their backs. 
• Keep moving the treat hand, so the treats roll over to the other side. 
• When they consistently roll over after following the treat all the way around, say “Roll Over.” 
• Slowly stop using your hand and the treat until your dog can do the trick just by hearing you say it. 
• Don’t forget to still praise and reward your dog for doing a good job.

• Cross the border
  For a few days, walk your dog on a leash around the outside of your yard several times a day. Point toward the ground as you walk around the perimeter so your dog can see where his boundary is. 
• Borders
  After a few days, stop pointing to the edge and start sweeping your arm to show your dog the edge of his boundary line. Do this walk at least four times a day for a few days with your dog. Your dog should learn to stop at the line that marks the boundary and not cross it. 
• Instructions
  After showing your dog his boundary line for about a week, you can start going to the line with your dog and giving him commands. Start with “sit,” and have your dog sit in different places along the edge of your property. 
• Stay
  Start using the stay command at the edge of your property after your dog has learned how to sit on the line. You can challenge your dog by crossing the line while he stays on his side.
• Don’t do it
  Back on your property, take your dog on the same walks every day and say “leave it” when you get to the line. If your dog doesn’t know the “leave it” command, it may take another week or so of using this command for your dog to understand he should leave anything on the other side of the line alone.
• Take on the challenge
  Once your dog knows what “leave it” means when it comes to the property line, start throwing treats on the other side of the line and telling it to “leave it.” Your dog shouldn’t try to get to the treats. Once he’s done well, you can give him something else. On the other hand, when you walk around your property line again, you can use the “stay” command to cross the line and get your dog’s treats from the other side.

• Set up a routine.
  A simple routine that works well helps them feel more calm, focused, and safe in situations that would otherwise be stressful. After a while, when your dog is used to your routine, you can use it in the real world, like at the park, on walks, or in public places. 
• Get the tools you need.
  A crate is another great tool for calming down a dog. A dog may need a crate to keep them safe and help them get used to a place they may not be used to. 
• Counter-conditioning:
  Two important steps must happen for conditioning to happen.
  Step 1: You must notify the antecedent or “trigger” (seen, heard, smelled).
  Step 2: The reinforcer (food or toy) must happen immediately. The dog must get the reward before it starts doing something it shouldn’t. When a dog shows the first few signs of something wrong, we can change how we act. 
• Changes in the home:
  The dog thinks that barking made the person or other dog leave, so it does it repeatedly. Using a tie-down when you are home is the best way to stop this from happening. Your dog will learn to stay in one place and not go to the window. You can also keep them away from windows with baby gates. 
• Body Language:
  First, know that most of a dog’s body language is based on its surroundings. Please pay close attention, though, because even calm dogs can quickly become uneasy when something or someone makes them feel bad. If you ever meet a dog and it starts to act aggressively, back away, move slowly, and don’t look like you’re going to hurt it. Also, don’t make eye contact, look away, and stay calm and sure of yourself. DO NOT run away! 
• Sign up for a class on changing bad habits
  One of the best ways to deal with your dog’s reactivity is to learn from certified trainers how to stop this behavior.

• Use an indoor dog bathroom. There are many indoor dog bathrooms these days, such as high-tech “litterboxes” and potties made just for male dogs that lift their legs.
• Use pee pads. Pee pads are great because they are easy to move around, pick up, and bring with you to a friend’s house or on a trip where you will be staying in a hotel. Put the pee pad in one spot in the house (near the door is best, since your dog will go to the door when it needs to go out), and if your puppy starts to go to the bathroom inside, pick them up and move them to the pad. You can also give your puppy some space in an x-pen by putting a pee pad in it.
• Plant grass on your patio or balcony. Several companies will mail you a piece of grass for your dog to use to go to the bathroom. Some are just patches of grass, while others have containers you can put the sod in to catch any water that might drain out. Find a place to put the dog poop bags so the place doesn’t smell. Just empty the container when it’s full.
• Make a plan for your puppy. Your dog will eventually be able to hold it long enough for you to get them down the stairs or in the elevator and outside. When you can’t or don’t want to take your dog outside, you might want to keep pee pads or a patch of grass around. But having a schedule for when your dog needs to go to the bathroom can be helpful. When you get a young puppy, try to take it out as often as you can: when it wakes up in the morning, after breakfast/before you leave for work, at lunchtime, after work, after dinner, before bed, etc. As they get older, you might be able to get by with a schedule like before and after work and before bed.

Start housebreaking your puppy when they are 12 to 16 weeks old. This is when your puppy has started to have more control over going to the bathroom and emptying its bladder. It’s important to teach a puppy when and where they can go when they’re young, so they don’t act up later.

Your dog should be on a leash the whole time. Dogs that aren’t on a leash must be kept in closed pet carriers or crates. Any carrier for a pet must be solid and closed, so the pet can’t get out, and the dog must be able to stand and lie down comfortably. Dogs aren’t allowed to sit down.

Most of the time, no. Tipping is not expected, but it’s always appreciated.

As with any working dog, police K9 units need basic obedience training when the dogs are young. They probably do this and other service dog training for the whole first year, slowly adding training in public settings to ensure the dogs can handle distractions. This is so that trainers and handlers have a good base to build on as they work to make their dogs fit any specialization that may be needed. Some dogs have special needs that make them good choices for the situations they will face. Usually, the dogs don’t learn more than one job because each one is so complicated. Instead, they specialize in one and do it well. These dogs are trained to find any drugs. They only learn how to do this one thing. Their training is hard, and they must be able to distinguish between different kinds of drugs without getting blinded by another smell. These dogs could smell drugs even if you were cooking a steak right next to them. This made them good detection dogs.

There are several 6-week-long dog training classes at PetSmart. All group classes cost $119 for six weeks or about $20 per one-hour class. Training a puppy (10 weeks to 5 months old). A first-time class teaches you how to talk to your dog and teach them basic skills like “come” and “loose-leash walking.”

• Stretch out your hand to your dog.
• Your dog may sniff, lick, or do other things to figure out what you want. The key is to stay quiet and wait it out. When your dog paws at your hand, click or praise him, open your hand, and give him the treat.
• Do the previous step a few times until your dog always paws at your hand.
• Once your dog consistently paws at your hand, start lengthening the time and making it harder. Hold your dog’s paw on your hand for a little longer before you praise, click, and give a treat.

•  Have your rewards ready
  The first step in teaching your dog to bark on command is to have plenty of rewards (like a toy or a treat) ready, just like when you teach your dog to be quiet. When you get your dog to bark, you let it know right away that you want to mark it with a command and a treat. 
• Get Your Dog To Bark
  If your dog is talkative, they may bark a lot of the time, like when you pick up a favourite toy or open the door. Step one is to make sure your dog is excited enough to bark. If your dog is usually calm, you can get them to bark by running, throwing a toy, or jumping.
• Mark The Behavior
  When your dog barks, use a cue word like “speak!” and immediately give it a toy, treat, or praise. If you train your dog with a clicker, try to click as soon as your dog barks. Mark and reward the behaviour until your dog can “speak” when you tell it to.
• You can include a hand gesture
  Once your dog understands the word “speak” well enough, you can add a hand signal to the mix. One hand signal for “speak” often used when training a dog starts with the palm facing the dog and four fingers against the thumb. Once your dog knows that command, use your voice command, hand signal, or a combination of the two to reinforce the behaviour and teach your dog always to speak when you tell it to.

1. Work on simple instructions
   No dog can be a good herder without being trained, so simple commands are the best way to start. You should pay most attention to “sit”, “lay down”, “stay”, and “come”. 
2. Get your dog used to animals. 
   If your dog doesn’t pay much attention to a group of sheep, it probably won’t want to spend hours learning how to herd them.
3. Play fetch. 
   And adding commands to the game, like telling your dog to wait to chase the ball until you let them, will help you work together to herd.
4. Learn the language. 
   “Come bye” makes them run clockwise around the herd, which moves it to the right. “Away” makes them run counter-clockwise around the herd, which moves it to the left. “Walk up” puts them at the back of the herd, which moves it toward you. Putting your dog on a leash is the best way to start practicing this behaviour. You’ll need a place to walk around, like a circle drawn in chalk on the ground, and something to get. 
5. Teach a command to let go
   Choose a release command, like “that’s enough” or “break,” that will tell your dog to stop the session and come back to you. Make sure to give your dog praise and treats a lot so that they find you more interesting than the rest of the pack. 
6. Put your dog’s skills to the test with real animals.
   On a farm, the first two steps are often done with animals still alive. But if you are new to training your dog to herd, you can wait until your dog knows all the commands before trying them out with real animals. Here are some tips from the pros about this step:
   ⇒ Start with small animals like ducks or chickens.
   ⇒ Don’t use animals like cattle until your dog is more skilled.  *Start with small animals like ducks or chickens.
   ⇒ Don’t use animals like cattle until your dog is more skilled. 

• Hideout
  Have someone hold your dog while you get his attention, then run away and hide. Make sure to bring his favourite toy, and at first, keep things simple. 
• Give the instruction
  The assistant then let’s go and gave the verbal command. 
• Find
  When your dog finds you, give him a treat and make a big deal. 
• Show them a sign
  Tell the dog to “speak” when he finds you, and if he does, give him treats.
• Make things harder
  Start by hiding where your dog can’t see you, and slowly move farther away. Give the person hiding more and more time to come out leaves, and when you let your dog search. Work up to three-hour-long searches, even though it’s been more than a day since the hider left. Go in all kinds of weather and cover different kinds of land.

•  Set to only signal
  Set your dog’s radio collar for an invisible fence to “signal only” so that when the dog gets close to the invisible fence line, it only gets a signal and nothing else. 
• Get close to the fence
  Take your dog for a walk with a leash and a separate collar that isn’t made of metal. Do this within but close to the invisible fence’s perimeter line. 
• Leave when you’re told to
  When the collar sounds an alarm that your dog is too close to the boundary, move your dog away from the invisible fence line to correct him. Give them treats when they move away from the fence line when you tell them to.
• Put corrections on
  The lowest level of static correction should be turned on once your dog knows the signal and has learned to stay away from the invisible fence line.
• Get used to reacting to signals
  Keep walking around the outside of the fence. If your dog doesn’t pay attention to the sound and goes past the boundary, he will get a mild correction.
• Make things go wrong
  Set distractions on the other side of the fence, like another dog or something your dog will want to go toward.
• Let corrective stimuli come in.
  If your dog crosses the invisible fence line, he will get a stimulus that tells him what he did wrong. If he doesn’t pay attention to the correction, you may need to turn up the volume of the corrective stimulus until your dog stays within the boundary, even when there are distractions. Reward your dog when it goes away when you tell it to.
• Train without a leash
  Move on to training without a leash. Continue supervision. Treat him when your dog moves away from the fence after hearing the sound. He will get correctional stimulation when he gets too close to the fence line. Make changes to the stimulation as needed.

Mix short jogging or running with your normal walking pace to teach your dog to run. Give your dog the cue before you go faster, and then reward them when they hurry to catch up. In the same way, you can teach your dog a command like “whoa” to stop moving.

•  Timing is everything.
  When using positive reinforcement, the right timing is very important. If the reward doesn’t happen immediately (within a few seconds), your pet might not connect it with the right action. 
• Keep it short.
  Dogs learn first from how we move, so try to get your dog to “sit” or “down” before you ask them to do something with words. Move your hand slowly and slightly behind your dog’s head while holding a toy or treat, so your dog has to sit to look up and see it. When your dog is sitting, you can get them to lie down by slowly lowering your hand and bringing the treat close to the ground between their front paws. Once your dog is doing the behaviour consistently, say “sit” or “down” in a calm voice and try not to say the word more than once. Keep verbal cues brief and easy to understand. 
• Consistency is key.
  Everyone in the family should use the same cues, or else your dog might get confused. It might help to put up a list of cues so everyone can get to know them. Consistency also means always rewarding the desired behaviour and never rewarding the behaviour you don’t want.

•  Play
  Give your dog a favourite toy and play with it often. Letting the dog play with the toy as a reward for following simple rules. 
• Hide the toy
  Start by putting the toy in a box and hiding it. Then teach your dog how to play “find it.” Start with places that aren’t too hard to find, and let your dog see you put the toy there. Make hiding places more difficult to find over time. 
• Hide the smelly toy
  Start to hide the toy and the smell of the drug you want to catch. Either put the smell on the toy, wrap it in the substance, or use the toy to hide the smell of the drug. Say “find it” to your dog. Your dog will start to think that the toy smells like a drug. Play with your dog with the toy that smells like drugs when your dog finds it.
• Use different places to hide
  Start putting the toy and smell in harder-to-find places.
• Take away the toy
  Gradually, hide the smell of the drug and tell the dog to “find it.” Bring out the toy and play with the dog and the toy when the dog finds the drug. 
• Make things hard
  Use places to hide that are harder to find and bring in distractions. When the dog finds the smell of the drug, play with its favourite toy as a reward.

One hour of private dog training costs between $45 and $120.

•  Put the crate in the right place.
  Your puppy wants to be a part of your life, so put the crate somewhere that gives them a good view of the area, so they don’t feel left out. The best place for a crate is usually in an open kitchen, a corner of the living room, or at the foot of a bed, so your puppy doesn’t feel alone. When deciding where to put your puppy’s crate, you should consider temperature, airflow, and sunlight.
• Don’t give your puppy food or water right before bedtime.
  Going to the bathroom late at night or early in the morning can throw off a puppy’s sleep schedule and make it harder to train them to sleep in their crate at night. To cut down on these trips to the bathroom, don’t let your puppy eat or drink anything big before bedtime. 
• Tire Your Puppy Out:
  To learn and grow, your puppy needs a lot of exercise and mental stimulation during the day. A well-worked-out puppy is likelier to accept nightly crate training because its bed will look much better. 
• Take Your Dog Outside Right Before Bed.
  Take them outside before bed to help your dog get used to the crate. Your puppy will eventually figure out that the last time they go outside is right before they go to bed. After their last bathroom break of the day, many dogs start going to their crate.
• Don’t play with your puppy at night.
  When you take your dog outside at night to “go,” be clear about what you want it to do. When you take your puppy outside to use the bathroom, don’t play with them or do anything else that will excite them. Instead, go outside at night as quickly as possible so you and your puppy can get back to sleep when you get back inside. 
• Get up before your dog does 
  Because a puppy sleeps lightly and has strange sleep patterns, it can be hard to wake up before it. But if you want to train your puppy to sleep in a crate at night, it’s best if you can wake up before your puppy. If you’re already awake when your puppy wakes up in the morning, you can immediately let them out of their crate and take them outside to use the bathroom. This cuts down on the time your puppy spends awake in their crate. This helps your dog form a strong, positive relationship with their nighttime home.

• Get the dog used to the collar and leash.
  Let the dog see and smell the collar or leash first if it is not used to them. To help your dog get used to the leash, rub it through your fingers to spread some of your scent along its length. Also, let your dog wear the collar without the leash for a long time before you go for a walk. 
• Change where the collar is on the dog’s neck.
  The top of the dog’s neck is the most sensitive part. The collar should fit in this area. Since the dog will feel the effects faster, corrections can be made with less force. Corrections won’t work well if the collar is too loose or too low. 
• Shorten the leash.
  A shorter leash makes keeping a firm grip on the dog easier without letting it get too far away and be tempted by more things. The feel of the collar and leash is a key part of communicating with a dog, and a shorter leash makes it easier for the owner to keep their pet under control. 
• Check the Feet.
  If a normally well-behaved walker starts to act up, check the dog’s legs and feet for thorns, bruises, cuts, or any swelling or tenderness that could mean an injury. Visit a vet if the problem is serious, or wait until the dog is better before you try again.
• Use verbal commands.
  Dogs can hear very well, and verbal commands can be a big part of training them to walk on a leash. Say “Let’s go!” in an excited voice to get people to move forward, and say “No!” in a harsh, firm voice to stop bad behaviour.
• Don’t move.
  If your dog pulls, don’t move. Don’t let them get closer to what they’re interested in. When the dog stops to look at you, say something nice or give it a small treat. If they start pulling again, don’t move until they stop, then move in the right direction to lead them.
• Pick up the Pace:
  If a dog is easily distracted on a walk, walking faster can stop them from doing things they shouldn’t. This is because they won’t have as much time to see new things, which could cause them to pull. Dogs like it when their owners walk quickly; a fast walk is better to exercise than a slow one.
• Walk more often.
  Any workout is more effective if you do it more than once and change it. More walks will not only help a dog remember how to behave on a leash, but they will also give the dog more exercise and help the dog and owner get to know each other better. 
• Try Treats:
  Small treats can be used to reward good walking behaviour, but it’s important only to use them as a tool and praise the dog’s good behaviour with words or a happy pat. 

• Use one hand to hold the tin and the treat in the other. Keep them about a foot apart. 
• When your dog finally stops sniffing or licking your hand with the treat and checks out your hand with the tin, say “Yes” and reward him by bringing the food to your hand with the tin. This step is very important. You have to feed the dog where the smell is coming from. If the dog keeps smelling the tin, you can give it food from it.
• Switch the tin to the other hand after a few reps, so the dog doesn’t have to remember which hand to go to. 
• You’re ready to go to the next step if your dog can tell in a few seconds, three times in a row, which scent is in each hand. 
• Next, put the tin with the scented cotton swab into the plastic container.
• Do the same thing again, but hold the box in your hand and wait for the dog to show that he knows the smell. When he does, feed the dog at the box, as you did before.
• When this is easy to do, place the box between your feet on the ground and repeat the steps above. 
• Finally, you can put the box on the floor while your dog is in another room and bring him into the room to see if he can find it.

•  Take them to the right place so you can give them a reward when they get there. Every time, try to take them to the same place.
• When they start to go to the bathroom, say something like “toilet” to let them know that they are doing the right thing. 
• When they’re done, praise them, give them treats, and play with them immediately. 
• Play with him for a while before you go back inside. So, they don’t figure out that going to the bathroom ends their time outside, which could make them wait until the last minute to go.
• If you see your dog about to go somewhere, it shouldn’t stop in a way that doesn’t hurt it, like by calling its name. Take them to the right place and praise them when they go to the bathroom. Don’t yell, or your dog might figure out that it’s only safe to go outside when you’re not there.

•  Give instructions
  While your dog is on a leash, practise the commands “come bye,” “walk on,” and “away.” This helps them learn to go in the direction they want.
• Give a “herd” of
  Get some ducks and let them run around in the yard.
• Practice
  Let your dog run free so it can try each command. Let the dog take a break, and then go back out immediately. 
• Increase difficulty
  If everything is going well, you could try putting your dog with some farm animals. Let him practice on the small herd until he is ready for the real thing.

• Start a food drive.
  Stop giving your dog table snacks or food that isn’t very good for it. In other words, they won’t eat any more people. At least for a while, don’t even give your dog food in a bowl because that makes it too easy for them to get. Instead, put some of their food in a puzzle toy, so they have to “work” to get it out. Keep the rest of their daily food in a treat pouch around your waist, and give them small handfuls as rewards for good behaviour throughout the day and during training sessions. 
• Use their nose.
  All dogs like things that smell good. In fact, the worse it smells, the better. You should look for chews with strong-smelling ingredients, such as dried liver or tripe. Try giving them different treats to keep them interested and help them pay attention while you train them. Treats shouldn’t make up more than 10% of your dog’s daily calories. Most of their food-based training should come from their daily meals, a high-quality diet that fits their age, breed, level of activity, and any other health issues they may have.
• Find out what drives your puppy.
  Spend time throwing balls to see if your puppy has a strong instinct to chase, and then take the time to teach them to fetch. When your puppy loves to chase a ball, it can be a great way to get it to do what you want. The same goes for any other favourite toy, especially ones that make noise. Over time, the goal is to stop using food to reward good behaviour most of the time. However, treats for good behaviour can still be used here and there.

• Leave him alone for 5 minutes. 
  You need to get him used to spending time by himself. To do that, you will first need to leave him alone in the house for 5 minutes.
• Go back. 
  Make sure you pay attention to him and compliment him. He needs to know that you’ll be happy to see him when you return. 
• 15 minutes
  Again, make sure you return as soon as possible and pay attention to him. It might be hard when he’s upset and whining the first few times, but he’ll get used to it soon. 
• Gradually lengthen the time. 
  When you come back into the room, always give him a treat and praise. 
• Cold shoulder
  It’s important that you don’t give in to his whining. If you do, you’ll tell him that whining is a good way to get what he wants. This won’t help the situation at all. So, be strong, and give him the cold shoulder as you leave.

• Only use positive ways to train. Instead of punishing your dog for bad behaviour, just ignore it or redirect it. Using rewards will encourage your dog to think of the training process well. 
• Be patient. Don’t have too high of hopes for your scared dog. For example, if your dog is nervous in training class, you could switch to private lessons, listen to the instructions, and wait to practice at home. 
• Move at the speed of your dog. Remember that fear makes learning hard, so it might take your dog longer than you thought to learn new tricks.
• Teach your dog to hit a target with his nose. You can use this easy and fun “touch” behaviour to get your dog to approach new people or other dogs. It’s also a great way to redirect and distract them around their triggers.

• Teach your dog to tap you or give you a nudge.
  The dog can help break up any episodes you’re having and bring you back to reality by nudging you with its nose or patting you with its paw. For the dog to help, it must keep nudging or patting you until you return to the present. Show your dog a treat you have in your hand, then fold your hand over it. When it pokes your hand with its nose, click your clicker and open your hand. Step back a few feet and do it again when the dog figures out that nudging gets treats. Keep moving away from the dog until it knows to come to you no matter where you are in the room. When you train the dog, teach it to respond to your signs or a command, and then give it a treat. When the dog is working, carry treats with you at all times. This will teach the dog to keep going until it gets a treat. If you’d rather the dog pat you instead of the treat, keep your hand open and rest it on your leg with the treat in it. Then wait until your dog puts its paw on your hand before giving it the treat. 
• Play the game “fetch” with your dog to teach it how to get things.
  Your dog cannot only get you water, food, or medicine, but it can also bring you things that make you feel better when you’re having flashbacks, fears, episodes, or sad thoughts. Start by making a toy out of something you want the dog to fetch, like a water bottle. You can throw an empty water bottle for your dog to get. As the dog plays and gets used to picking up and bringing the item, try putting it on a shelf or table. Call the dog over to the item, then show them where it is. Give the dog a treat when it picks it up. Next, try to get the thing you want. Leave the thing where it is, but go to a different room. Call your dog and tell it to bring you the water bottle. “Rover, bring the bottle,” for example. Give it a treat if it does. When your dog does something good, give him treats. 
• Teach your dog to pull by playing tug-of-war with it.
  Even if your dog doesn’t use this skill very often, it will help him get things for you. For instance, if your dog needs to get you some water, it will have to open the fridge. Also, playing tug-of-war can help both you and the dog feel better. Start by pulling a rope back and forth with your dog. This should be a game between you and the dog that the dog sees as play, not training. When the dog is used to playing, tie the rope to a door where it can reach it. Get the dog to come to the door and give it the rope. At first, help it open the door and give it a treat. Give the dog another treat when it can open the door on its own. 
• Teach the dog to wake up when the alarm goes off.
  If you have trouble getting up in the morning, your dog can learn when your alarm goes off. Your dog should come to get you when the alarm goes off. This will help you keep your regular wake-up times. Start by giving a treat to the dog. Set the alarm, give the dog a treat, and then praise it. Do this ten times. Spread out your training sessions once your dog knows that when it hears a buzz, it means treats are coming. Set the alarm, give your dog a treat, and play with it for 10 to 15 minutes. After a few days, take the alarm back to your bedroom and set it. Your dog should come to you when it wants a treat or play. The dog should be ready in the morning to wake you up. 
• Teach the dog to help you get out of situations that are making you feel stressed.
  Sometimes you may want to leave a stressful place, like a noisy room or a party with many people. Your dog can learn a way to get you out of the house. For example, the dog could act out so that you have to leave to “tend to the dog,” or it could learn to lead you to exits. Just like with your other commands, you can teach your dog a “code word” or hand signal that tells it to pull you toward an exit. 
• Teach the dog to get in the way of people.
  If crowds or strangers make you have an episode, teach your dog to stand before you and not move. This will give you the room you need to feel safe and at ease. You can teach your dog to block you by telling it to “sit” and “stay.” Use your clicker to teach your dog to stay in front of you if you want it to block you when you’re out in public. At first, give it lots of treats and praise. When the dog is used to sitting in front of you, all you’ll need to do is to keep it still and say “sit” and “stay.”

• Start with a good dog.
  Even though hunt tests, field trials, and detailed pedigrees aren’t as common for squirrel dogs as for pointing and flushing breeds, you still need to find a puppy with good bloodlines. When looking for a puppy, you should look for a breeder with a history of making good squirrel dogs. Find a breeder who is willing to stand behind their work. 
• Exposure
  You need squirrels to make a squirrel dog. Parnell likes to trap a squirrel and put it in his yard so his dog can find it. Parnell says that once the puppy finds the squirrel, it will have to work to get the courage to get the squirrel out of the trap, but “eventually they’ll break free and start barking and trying to tear it up; to get to that squirrel.” Caution: This method shouldn’t be used too often. If you do this exercise too often, the dog will learn that the trap means food and bark at the trap instead of the squirrel. The best way to train a squirrel dog is to twist the routine of catching a squirrel. Parnell says you should start again with a squirrel in a trap, but this time in a place with a few (but not too many) trees. Put the squirrel down where the puppy can find it. Let the squirrel out of the trap when the dog starts to bark and get excited. The squirrel will run to the closest tree. The dog should start to “bark the tree when the squirrel climbs a tree.” 
• Take him hunting
  It would be best if you also took the dog to the woods where there are a lot of squirrels. “Taking the dog to woods where there are no squirrels hurts him more than it helps,” says Parnell. Lastly, don’t rush things. During the first few months, your hunting trips will be more about building the pup’s confidence. It will take him some time to figure it all out. Don’t get down on yourself. Don’t give up. If you give a well-bred squirrel dog enough time and chances, it will soon figure out what you want.

• Have a treat ready for your dog when he jumps up on the counter to get to the food.
• Distract: Put the treat in front of his nose to get his attention. 
• Use a treat to lead the dog. Slowly lower the treat to the ground and say, “Off!” 
• Reward and repeat: When he does what you want, give him the treat and do the same thing repeatedly.
• Take away the treat. Try the same command without a treat to get your dog’s attention. 
• Reward: Give him lots of praise and a treat if he listens to the “Off!” command without the lure.

• Teach your dog to answer to its name before you teach it to come when called. Knowing your dog’s name makes it easy to get their attention when you need to. This can save their lives if you need them to pay attention to you quickly to protect them. Once you’re sure you can get their attention, you can use the recall cue you’ve chosen. Pick a short, snappy word like “come” or “here,” or if you prefer, a whistle. If they can’t hear you, give them a visual clue, like holding your arms wide. To keep your dog from getting confused, ensure everyone in your home knows which word and movement you are using. Ensure your dog has at least five seconds to recall the cue before calling again. If you don’t think they’ll come back, don’t call again. This could teach them that it’s okay not to come back. 
• Always give your dog a treat when it comes back to you Start by putting some tasty treats inside, in your garden, or another enclosed space. Call their name to get your dog’s attention, then use your recall cue and move away from them. When they come to you, praise them and give them something tasty. Make sure your rewards are fun and enticing, especially if your dog just left something interesting (like a squirrel or another dog). Use a happy, excited voice and open body language when you call them (crouched down, arms open). No matter how long it takes, it would be best if you always praised your dog for coming back. As your dog gets better, you won’t have to give it a treat each time it comes back. But don’t forget to reward them to keep them going. 
• Put in some distractions and make the distance to remember longer. Gradually get farther away from your dog and call them away from more and more distractions. At some point, they left the garden and went out into the world. Let them move away from you before you use your recall cue, and keep them safe by attaching a long line to their harness. Don’t get angry or shout if they don’t pay attention to you. If you do, they won’t want to talk to you again. Instead, use the long line to guide them or go and get them. Never pull your dog toward you by the lead. This might make them decide not to come back.