Advanced Jewelry Repair & Design Techniques Flashcards

What is the purpose of annealing metal during jewelry fabrication?

Answer: To relieve work-hardening stress and restore malleability

Annealing heats metal to a specific temperature and allows it to cool slowly, relieving internal stresses caused by working and restoring ductility.

A customer's white gold ring has turned slightly yellow after years of wear. What is the most likely cause?

Answer: The rhodium plating has worn away, revealing the yellow gold alloy beneath

White gold is naturally slightly yellow; rhodium plating gives it a bright white appearance, but plating wears over time, exposing the underlying alloy.

Which flux type is most appropriate when soldering sterling silver?

Answer: Borax-based paste flux

Borax-based paste flux prevents oxidation on sterling silver during soldering and promotes clean solder flow.

When sizing a ring up using the stretching method rather than adding metal, the jeweler must be aware that:

Answer: The shank will become thinner as it is stretched

Stretching a ring on a mandrel increases diameter but thins and weakens the shank metal, which limits how much stretching is advisable.

In electroforming, what is the role of the mandrel?

Answer: It serves as the form over which metal is electroplated to create the hollow structure

In electroforming, metal ions are deposited over a mandrel (often wax or other removable material) which is later removed to leave a hollow metal shell.

A tension setting holds a diamond in place primarily through:

Answer: Spring pressure of the metal shank compressing the stone's girdle

Tension settings use the spring-back force of the shank metal to grip the stone's girdle tightly on both sides without traditional prongs or bezels.

What does 'engraving' remove from a metal surface to create a design?

Answer: Small slivers of metal using a graver or burin

Engraving uses sharp steel gravers (burins) to cut and remove thin curls of metal, incising lines and patterns into the surface.