Advanced Jewelry Repair & Design Techniques Flashcards

When retipping prongs on a platinum setting, which technique is most appropriate?

Answer: Use platinum wire and laser or pulse-arc welding

Platinum retipping requires platinum wire and laser or pulse-arc welding because platinum has a high melting point and does not bond well with solder alloys used for gold.

What is the primary risk when sizing a channel-set diamond ring down more than two sizes?

Answer: Stones may loosen or crack under compression

Reducing a channel-set ring too many sizes compresses the channel walls, placing stress on the stones and risking cracking or loosening.

In lost-wax casting, what causes porosity in the finished metal casting?

Answer: Gases trapped during solidification or incomplete burnout

Porosity in castings results from trapped gases or incomplete wax burnout leaving voids as metal solidifies.

Which alloy composition is standard for 18-karat yellow gold?

Answer: 750 parts per thousand pure gold

18-karat gold is 750 parts per thousand (75%) pure gold, with the remaining 25% being alloying metals.

A bezel setting that does not hold a stone securely is best corrected by:

Answer: Burnishing the bezel wall tighter over the stone's girdle

Burnishing pushes the bezel wall firmly over the girdle to grip the stone without using adhesives or solder.

What does 'sweat soldering' refer to in jewelry fabrication?

Answer: Pre-coating both pieces with solder, then joining them with heat

Sweat soldering involves applying solder to both surfaces, allowing it to set, then re-heating to fuse the pieces together with even distribution.

When designing a pave setting for a curved surface, the setter must account for:

Answer: Adjusting bead placement for the curvature so stones sit level

On curved surfaces, bead and seat positioning must be adjusted so each stone sits flush and level despite the contour of the metal.