CWI CWI Climbing Techniques & Movement Skills 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is a 'dyno' in climbing, and when should an instructor introduce it to students?
- A static high step; introduced to all beginners
- A dynamic jump move where both hands momentarily leave the wall; introduced after basic footwork is established (Correct answer)
- A rest position on a large ledge; introduced on the first session
- A belaying technique; introduced during lead climbing
Correct answer: A dynamic jump move where both hands momentarily leave the wall; introduced after basic footwork is established
A dyno is a fully dynamic move where the climber uses momentum to jump to a hold, and it should be taught after students have solid static technique and body awareness.
Question 2: Which grip type places the fingers in a fully curled position with the thumb wrapping over the index finger, and is considered the strongest but highest-risk for injury?
- Open hand crimp
- Half crimp
- Full crimp (closed crimp) (Correct answer)
- Pinch grip
Correct answer: Full crimp (closed crimp)
The full crimp (closed crimp) is the strongest grip but places extreme stress on the A2 pulley, making it the most injury-prone grip position.
Question 3: When coaching a student on footwork accuracy, which drill is most directly targeted at improving precision of foot placement?
- Hangboard repeaters
- Climbing with vision restricted to feet only ('feet first' drill) (Correct answer)
- Campus board laddering
- Climbing as fast as possible to build endurance
Correct answer: Climbing with vision restricted to feet only ('feet first' drill)
Feet-first or vision-restricted drills force climbers to look at and think about their foot placements, directly improving precision and proprioception.
Question 4: What is the primary benefit of teaching 'stemming' technique to students on a climbing wall?
- It allows rest and recovery by pressing outward on two opposing surfaces (Correct answer)
- It is the fastest method to reach the top
- It requires no upper body strength
- It is only useful on crack climbing routes
Correct answer: It allows rest and recovery by pressing outward on two opposing surfaces
Stemming presses the feet against two opposing surfaces, distributing weight through the legs and allowing the arms to rest, which is key for managing fatigue.
Question 5: A student consistently over-grips on easy terrain, leading to early fatigue. What is the best instructional cue to address this?
- Tell them to climb faster to reduce time on the wall
- Cue them to use only the pressure needed to maintain contact — 'grip only as hard as you need to' (Correct answer)
- Move them to harder routes with smaller holds
- Encourage them to use only the full crimp grip for security
Correct answer: Cue them to use only the pressure needed to maintain contact — 'grip only as hard as you need to'
Over-gripping is best addressed by teaching economy of effort — using minimal grip force appropriate to the hold size and angle.
Question 6: What distinguishes 'smearing' from 'edging' when climbing on a slab?
- Smearing uses the flat rubber sole against the wall for friction; edging uses the shoe's edge on a defined hold (Correct answer)
- Smearing is only used on vertical walls; edging is only used on overhangs
- Smearing requires special shoes; edging can be done barefoot
- Smearing involves the heel; edging involves the toe
Correct answer: Smearing uses the flat rubber sole against the wall for friction; edging uses the shoe's edge on a defined hold
Smearing maximizes rubber-to-wall contact on featureless rock using friction, while edging stands precisely on the shoe's stiff edge on a defined foothold.
CWI CWI Climbing Techniques & Movement Skills 2
What is a 'dyno' in climbing, and when should an instructor introduce it to students?