Haircolor and Lightening Flashcards

A client with level 6 hair wants to achieve a pale, level 10 blonde. During the lightening process, her hair exposes strong orange and yellow tones. To neutralize the unwanted brassiness and achieve the target shade, which toner should be used?

Answer: A toner with a violet base

According to the law of color, complementary colors neutralize each other. On the color wheel, violet is directly opposite yellow, and blue is opposite orange. Since the hair has both orange and yellow tones, but the goal is a pale blonde (level 10) where yellow is the predominant remaining pigment, a violet-based toner is essential to cancel out the yellow. While blue would address the orange, violet is the primary neutralizer for the yellow tones that are most visible at the higher levels of lightening.

When performing a lightener retouch on a client with 1 inch of new growth, what is the most critical application technique to prevent hair damage?

Answer: Applying the lightener only to the new growth and avoiding overlap onto the previously lightened hair

Overlapping lightener (bleach) onto previously lightened hair is one of the most common causes of severe hair damage, breakage, and even chemical cuts. Previously lightened hair has already undergone a chemical process that has altered its structure, making it more porous and fragile. Applying lightener again to these areas can severely weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage. The correct procedure is to carefully apply the lightener only to the new, untreated regrowth.

Which of the following hair coloring products does NOT require a developer and works by coating the outside of the hair cuticle?

Answer: Semi-permanent hair color

Semi-permanent hair color consists of large molecules that coat the surface of the hair cuticle without the need for a developer (an oxidizing agent like hydrogen peroxide). Because it does not penetrate the cortex, it is a deposit-only color that washes out over several shampoos. Permanent and demi-permanent colors require a developer to open the cuticle and allow the color molecules to penetrate the cortex. Lighteners also use a developer to decolorize the natural melanin in the cortex.

A stylist mixes a permanent hair color and a 20-volume developer. What is the primary function of the hydrogen peroxide in the developer?

Answer: To lift the natural pigment and activate the color molecules

Hydrogen peroxide, the active ingredient in developer, has two main roles in permanent hair coloring. First, it acts as an oxidizing agent to lighten the natural hair pigment (melanin). Second, it activates the color molecules in the dye, causing them to swell and become trapped within the cortex, resulting in a permanent color change. The strength (volume) of the developer determines the degree of lift.

Before applying a new hair color formula to a client for the first time, a stylist conducts a preliminary strand test. What is the MOST important information gathered from this test?

Answer: The final color result and the required processing time

A preliminary strand test is crucial for determining how the hair will react to the color formula. It allows the stylist to see the exact color outcome on that specific client's hair and determine the precise processing time needed to achieve the desired result. This helps avoid unexpected color results and potential over-processing. While a patch test is used for allergies and hair analysis determines the natural level, the strand test is specifically for previewing the color result and timing.

In a standard hair color numbering system (e.g., 6.1 or 6A), what does the number before the decimal point or the primary letter typically represent?

Answer: The level of lightness or darkness

In professional hair color lines, the numbering system is used to define the color. The number that comes before a decimal, slash, or letter indicates the color's level, which is its degree of lightness or darkness. This scale typically ranges from 1 (Black) to 10 (Lightest Blonde). The number(s) or letter(s) after the decimal or slash represent the tone(s) of the color (e.g., .1 or A for Ash).