ASE Practice Test (B3: Non-Structural Analysis & Damage Repair) — Questions and Answers
Question 1: When straightening a damaged outer door skin, a technician should work from the:
- Center of the damage outward toward the edges
- Edges of the damage inward toward the center (Correct answer)
- Highest point of the damage first
- Bottom of the panel upward
Correct answer: Edges of the damage inward toward the center
When straightening sheet metal damage, always work from the outer edges of the damaged area inward toward the center (highest point). This technique relieves tension at the perimeter first, allowing the metal to return to its original shape without creating additional distortion.
Question 2: A plastic bumper cover has a stress crack but is not torn through. The recommended repair method is:
- Apply body filler directly over the crack after sanding
- V-groove the crack, weld with plastic welding rod, and finish with adhesive (Correct answer)
- Replace the bumper cover — stress cracks cannot be repaired
- Apply fiberglass cloth and resin over the damaged area
Correct answer: V-groove the crack, weld with plastic welding rod, and finish with adhesive
For stress cracks in plastic bumper covers, the proper repair is to V-groove the crack with a die grinder, then plastic weld using a compatible welding rod and plastic welder. The repair is then feathered, primed, and painted. Fiberglass is not compatible with most OEM plastics.
Question 3: A replacement hood has been installed but the rear corners are sitting too high compared to the fenders. The adjustment needed is:
- Move the hood rearward at the hinge bolts
- Raise the hood bumpers at the radiator support
- Shim the rear of the hinges downward (Correct answer)
- Adjust the hood latch striker upward
Correct answer: Shim the rear of the hinges downward
Hood height at the rear corners is controlled by the hinge attachment points. Shimming or adjusting the rear of the hinges downward will lower the rear hood corners to align with the fenders. Hood bumpers affect the front height, and the latch controls horizontal fit.
Question 4: Before applying polyester body filler, the technician should ensure the bare metal is:
- Primed with epoxy primer to improve adhesion
- Sanded to 80-grit bare metal and free of rust and contamination (Correct answer)
- Heated with a heat gun to open the metal pores
- Coated with a thin layer of weld-through primer
Correct answer: Sanded to 80-grit bare metal and free of rust and contamination
Polyester body filler requires direct adhesion to clean, bare metal. The surface must be sanded to 80-grit to provide mechanical adhesion, and all rust, oil, and contaminants must be removed. Applying filler over primer reduces adhesion and can lead to delamination.
Question 5: A technician measures a door gap at the top and finds it is 8mm, while the gap at the bottom is 4mm. This indicates the door needs to be adjusted:
- Moved rearward at the top hinge (Correct answer)
- Moved forward at the top hinge
- Moved upward at the bottom hinge
- Moved rearward at the bottom hinge
Correct answer: Moved rearward at the top hinge
The top gap is wider than the bottom, meaning the top of the door is too far rearward (or the bottom is too far forward). Moving the door forward at the top hinge will close the top gap and equalize the spacing. Door gap adjustment is always done at the hinge attachment points.
Question 6: Which of the following is the CORRECT sequence for repairing a dent using the hammer-and-dolly technique with the dolly 'off the dent'?
- Strike the high spots directly with the hammer while holding the dolly on the low areas (Correct answer)
- Strike the dent with the hammer while the dolly is held directly beneath the hammer blows
- Use the dolly as a hammer against the back of the panel, driving high spots down
- Alternately strike high and low spots without using a dolly
Correct answer: Strike the high spots directly with the hammer while holding the dolly on the low areas
When using the dolly 'off the dent' technique, the dolly is held on a low area adjacent to where the hammer strikes a high spot. The dolly's rebound pushes the low area up while the hammer drives the high area down, creating a dual-action straightening effect.
Question 7: Before applying polyester body filler, what is the MOST important surface preparation step?
- Apply a coat of primer first to improve adhesion
- Sand the bare metal to 80-grit to create a clean anchor pattern and remove rust/oxidation (Correct answer)
- Heat the panel with a heat gun to open the metal pores
- Apply a conversion coating only
Correct answer: Sand the bare metal to 80-grit to create a clean anchor pattern and remove rust/oxidation
Polyester body filler must be applied directly to bare, clean, sanded metal. It should never be applied over paint, primer, or rust. Sanding to 80-grit creates a mechanical anchor pattern for the filler to bond to. Any rust or oxidation under the filler will cause adhesion failure and bubbling. The metal must also be clean and free of wax, grease, and moisture.
Question 8: Which type of plastic is identified by the recycling code "PP" and requires what type of repair adhesive?
- Polycarbonate — requires epoxy adhesive
- Polypropylene — requires a hot-melt or urethane adhesive specifically formulated for low-energy plastics (Correct answer)
- Polyurethane — requires two-part structural adhesive
- ABS plastic — requires cyanoacrylate (super glue)
Correct answer: Polypropylene — requires a hot-melt or urethane adhesive specifically formulated for low-energy plastics
Polypropylene (PP) is a low surface energy (LSE) plastic used for bumper covers. Its smooth molecular surface resists adhesion, requiring adhesives specifically formulated for LSE plastics (often urethane or modified acrylics). Standard adhesives will not bond properly. PP parts also require adhesion promoter before painting. Misidentifying plastic type leads to adhesive failure.
Question 9: A quarter panel being replaced requires cutting through the original factory spot welds. Which tool is the BEST choice to remove the welds without damaging the inner panel?
- Standard twist drill bit
- Spot weld cutter (hole saw type) set to drill through only the outer layer (Correct answer)
- Angle grinder with a grinding disc
- Air chisel with a flat chisel bit
Correct answer: Spot weld cutter (hole saw type) set to drill through only the outer layer
A spot weld cutter (also called a spot weld drill or panel cutter) is a specialized hole saw designed to cut through only the outer panel layer at the weld nugget without drilling into the inner reinforcement panel. This preserves the integrity of the inner structure. Standard drill bits and grinders often damage the inner panel, requiring additional repair or section replacement.
Question 10: When applying polyester body filler, what does using too much hardener (cream hardener) cause?
- Filler will not cure at all
- Filler cures too fast, pinholes are more likely, and the filler becomes very hard and difficult to sand (Correct answer)
- Filler shrinks less and adheres better to metal
- Filler becomes flexible and waterproof
Correct answer: Filler cures too fast, pinholes are more likely, and the filler becomes very hard and difficult to sand
Polyester body filler must be mixed at the ratio specified by the manufacturer (typically about 2% hardener by volume). Too much hardener causes excessively fast curing that generates excess heat, which can cause pinholes (small gas bubbles from rapid off-gassing), brittleness, and poor adhesion. Over-catalyzed filler is also very hard and difficult to sand without loading the paper.
Question 11: What causes "featheredging" in a repair area, and why is it done?
- Featheredging adds texture to the substrate for filler adhesion
- Featheredging tapers the edges of existing paint layers to a thin, gradual slope so new materials can be applied without visible edge buildup (Correct answer)
- Featheredging removes clearcoat only from the repair area
- Featheredging is done only when applying body filler over primer
Correct answer: Featheredging tapers the edges of existing paint layers to a thin, gradual slope so new materials can be applied without visible edge buildup
Featheredging is the process of sanding the edges of existing paint layers so they taper smoothly and gradually into the bare metal rather than ending abruptly. Without featheredging, the sharp edge of old paint layers would telegraph through the new finish as a visible ridge. Proper featheredging ensures a smooth, invisible blend between repaired and original surfaces.
Question 12: A technician finds that body filler has developed pinholes after sanding. What is the correct repair procedure?
- Apply additional filler over the pinholes and sand again
- Apply glazing putty (finishing putty) designed to fill pinholes, then sand smooth (Correct answer)
- Seal the pinholes with clearcoat before priming
- Sand deeper to remove all filler and start over with new filler
Correct answer: Apply glazing putty (finishing putty) designed to fill pinholes, then sand smooth
Pinholes in body filler are small voids caused by air entrapment during mixing or application. Reapplying polyester filler over pinholes typically introduces more air and more pinholes. Glazing putty (a fine-grain finishing putty) is specifically formulated with low viscosity to fill small pinholes, scratches, and imperfections before priming. It should be applied thinly and sanded with fine-grit paper.
ASE Practice Test (B3: Non-Structural Analysis & Damage Repair)
When straightening a damaged outer door skin, a technician should work from the:
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Sources & references
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- ase.com — Test delivery, renewal, retake policy, score release, score validity, exam format, time limit, fees, registration deadline, registration · verified Oct 2026
- prometric.com — Test delivery · verified Oct 2026