Woodworking Wood Finishing And Staining 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is shellac used for in woodworking finishing?
- As a versatile primer, sealer, and finish that dries quickly and bonds to nearly any surface (Correct answer)
- As a waterproof topcoat for outdoor furniture
- As a grain filler for open-pored woods
- As a paint stripper to remove old finishes
Correct answer: As a versatile primer, sealer, and finish that dries quickly and bonds to nearly any surface
Shellac, dissolved in denatured alcohol, dries quickly, seals stains and odors, and bonds to virtually all surfaces, making it an excellent primer under other finishes as well as a stand-alone finish.
Question 2: What does 'dewhiskering' mean in wood finishing?
- Lightly sanding between coats to remove dust nibs and raised grain fibers (Correct answer)
- Removing excess stain with a rag
- Burning whiskers off rough-sawn lumber with a torch
- Using a card scraper to remove mill marks
Correct answer: Lightly sanding between coats to remove dust nibs and raised grain fibers
Dewhiskering refers to lightly scuff-sanding the surface between finish coats with fine sandpaper (320 grit or higher) to remove dust particles and raised grain whiskers for a smooth final coat.
Question 3: What is a gel stain, and why is it useful on blotch-prone woods?
- A thick, non-penetrating stain that sits on the wood surface and applies color more evenly without deep penetration (Correct answer)
- A water-based stain in gel form that dries faster than liquid stains
- A stain mixed with polyurethane for one-step color and protection
- A stain applied hot to force pigment into wood pores
Correct answer: A thick, non-penetrating stain that sits on the wood surface and applies color more evenly without deep penetration
Gel stain has a thick, pudding-like consistency that limits penetration into wood fibers, producing uniform color on blotch-prone woods like pine, birch, and cherry.
Question 4: What is 'rubbing out' a finish?
- Using progressively finer abrasives and compounds to level and polish a cured finish to a chosen sheen (Correct answer)
- Stripping an old finish with a chemical remover
- Wiping on the final coat of finish with a cloth
- Buffing out scratch marks with a random orbital sander
Correct answer: Using progressively finer abrasives and compounds to level and polish a cured finish to a chosen sheen
Rubbing out is the process of abrading a fully cured finish with fine sandpaper, steel wool, and polishing compounds to achieve a perfectly flat, high-gloss or satin surface.
Question 5: What finish is best suited for a wooden cutting board that will contact food?
- Food-safe mineral oil or a beeswax/mineral oil blend (Correct answer)
- Polyurethane varnish
- Lacquer topcoat
- Linseed oil
Correct answer: Food-safe mineral oil or a beeswax/mineral oil blend
Food-safe mineral oil and beeswax blends are non-toxic, penetrate well, and can be renewed easily, making them the recommended finish for wooden cutting boards and utensils.
Question 6: What causes fisheye defects in a freshly applied finish?
- Silicone oil or wax contamination on the wood surface repels the finish and creates small craters (Correct answer)
- Applying the finish too thick in one coat
- Using a dirty brush with old hardened finish in the bristles
- Spraying at too high an air pressure
Correct answer: Silicone oil or wax contamination on the wood surface repels the finish and creates small craters
Fisheyes are small circular craters caused by silicone contamination from polishes, waxes, or hand lotions repelling the liquid finish before it can level and cure.
Woodworking Wood Finishing And Staining 2
What is shellac used for in woodworking finishing?