WLFI Repair Techniques & Restoration 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: When a single plank in a glue-down hardwood floor has cracked, what is the most appropriate repair method?
- Sand the entire floor to blend the crack
- Inject epoxy filler into the crack and clamp until cured
- Replace only the damaged plank by cutting it out and gluing in a new one (Correct answer)
- Apply wood putty on top and refinish the entire floor
Correct answer: Replace only the damaged plank by cutting it out and gluing in a new one
Cutting out and replacing the individual damaged plank is the targeted, industry-standard repair for glue-down floors.
Question 2: Which tool is most effective for removing a single tongue-and-groove plank from the middle of a floating laminate floor?
- Circular saw set to plank depth, plus a pry bar
- Random orbital sander
- Router with a flush-trim bit
- Oscillating multi-tool with a plunge-cut blade (Correct answer)
Correct answer: Oscillating multi-tool with a plunge-cut blade
An oscillating multi-tool with a plunge-cut blade allows precise cuts close to adjacent planks without damaging them.
Question 3: A homeowner reports that a section of laminate flooring has swollen edges (peaking) along the seams after a water leak. What is the inspector's primary recommendation?
- Sand the raised edges flush and apply a seam sealer
- Allow the floor to dry completely; if peaking persists, replace the affected planks (Correct answer)
- Re-glue the seams with construction adhesive
- Install additional expansion gaps at walls to relieve pressure
Correct answer: Allow the floor to dry completely; if peaking persists, replace the affected planks
Laminate core swelling is typically irreversible once the fiber board has expanded; replacement of damaged planks is required if drying does not resolve the issue.
Question 4: What is the correct sequence for patching a gouged area on a solid hardwood floor that will be refinished?
- Fill with latex caulk → sand → refinish
- Sand to bare wood → apply wood filler → sand flush → refinish (Correct answer)
- Apply finish → sand → fill gouge → sand again
- Fill with wood filler → skip sanding → apply stain
Correct answer: Sand to bare wood → apply wood filler → sand flush → refinish
Sanding to bare wood first ensures the filler bonds properly, and sanding flush after curing creates a level surface for finishing.
Question 5: During a restoration inspection, you observe that a hardwood floor has been drum-sanded unevenly, leaving visible sanding marks across the grain. What remedial step corrects this?
- Apply a heavy coat of finish to hide the marks
- Re-sand with the grain using progressively finer grits starting at 36-grit (Correct answer)
- Use a belt sander perpendicular to the grain to quickly remove high spots
- Apply a wood stain darker than the original to mask the marks
Correct answer: Re-sand with the grain using progressively finer grits starting at 36-grit
Sanding with the grain using progressively finer grits removes cross-grain scratches and levels the surface properly.
Question 6: A floor inspector finds that a floating laminate floor has developed a hollow-sounding area (tenting) in the center of the room. Which condition most likely caused this?
- Excessive humidity causing expansion with insufficient expansion gap (Correct answer)
- Sub-floor unevenness greater than 3/16 inch per 10 feet
- Inadequate underlayment padding thickness
- Use of the wrong type of adhesive at seams
Correct answer: Excessive humidity causing expansion with insufficient expansion gap
Insufficient expansion gaps at walls cause the floor to buckle upward (tent) when moisture-related expansion occurs.
Question 7: When restoring a stained solid hardwood floor to its natural color, which abrasive grit sequence is correct for a drum sander?
- 120 → 80 → 36 (coarse to fine to medium)
- 36 → 60 → 80 (coarse to medium to fine) (Correct answer)
- 80 → 36 → 120 (medium to coarse to fine)
- 60 → 120 → 36 (alternating grits)
Correct answer: 36 → 60 → 80 (coarse to medium to fine)
Starting with coarse 36-grit removes the old finish and stain efficiently, progressing to finer grits smooths the surface.
When a single plank in a glue-down hardwood floor has cracked, what is the most appropriate repair method?