Tailor Suit Construction and Bespoke Tailoring 1 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What distinguishes bespoke tailoring from made-to-measure tailoring?
- Bespoke uses a unique pattern drafted from scratch for each client; made-to-measure adjusts an existing block (Correct answer)
- Bespoke uses factory machinery while made-to-measure is entirely hand-sewn
- Bespoke garments are always priced lower because fewer materials are used
- Bespoke only refers to women's clothing while made-to-measure covers menswear
Correct answer: Bespoke uses a unique pattern drafted from scratch for each client; made-to-measure adjusts an existing block
True bespoke tailoring creates an individual pattern for each client and involves multiple fittings, while made-to-measure modifies a standard template.
Question 2: What is the purpose of 'pad stitching' a jacket lapel?
- To permanently attach the canvas interfacing to the lapel and create a soft roll (Correct answer)
- To reinforce the buttonhole edges before cutting
- To gather the sleeve cap before setting it into the armhole
- To secure the lining to the jacket front facing
Correct answer: To permanently attach the canvas interfacing to the lapel and create a soft roll
Pad stitching attaches the hair canvas to the lapel cloth in small diagonal stitches that build a soft, sculptural roll.
Question 3: In a two-button single-breasted suit, which button should always remain fastened when standing?
- The top button only (Correct answer)
- Both buttons simultaneously
- The bottom button only
- Neither button needs to be fastened
Correct answer: The top button only
Traditional etiquette requires fastening only the top button of a two-button suit when standing, leaving the bottom open.
Question 4: What is a 'pick stitch' in tailoring?
- A hand stitch appearing as tiny dots along a lapel edge or seam for a bespoke finish (Correct answer)
- A machine stitch used to close lining openings
- A stitch used to attach buttons securely
- A running stitch used to gather fabric
Correct answer: A hand stitch appearing as tiny dots along a lapel edge or seam for a bespoke finish
Pick stitching is a hand-finishing technique that creates small, evenly spaced stitch dots visible on the edge of lapels and pocket flaps.
Question 5: What is the name of the extra back fabric fold sewn into a traditional British-style suit jacket?
- Suppression
- Action back pleat (Correct answer)
- Back vent
- Kick pleat
Correct answer: Action back pleat
An action back pleat is a vertical fold of extra fabric sewn into the upper back to allow ease of movement when reaching forward.
Question 6: What are 'working buttonholes' on a jacket sleeve also called?
- Surgeon's cuffs (Correct answer)
- Doctor's cuffs
- Kissing buttons
- Functional cuffs
Correct answer: Surgeon's cuffs
Working buttonholes on the jacket sleeve cuff are called surgeon's cuffs because they allow the sleeve to be rolled up.
What distinguishes bespoke tailoring from made-to-measure tailoring?