Tailor Suit Construction and Bespoke Tailoring 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: Which type of jacket vent is most common in American suit tailoring?
- Single center vent (Correct answer)
- Double side vents
- No vent
- Inverted pleat vent
Correct answer: Single center vent
The single center vent is the traditional American style, as opposed to the double side vents popular in British tailoring.
Question 2: What is 'ease' in garment construction?
- The extra fabric added beyond body measurements to allow comfort and movement (Correct answer)
- The difference between the front and back length measurements
- The amount a seam is trimmed after stitching
- The gap left between two layers of fabric for pressing
Correct answer: The extra fabric added beyond body measurements to allow comfort and movement
Ease is the additional fabric allowance beyond the body's actual measurements so the garment is comfortable to wear and move in.
Question 3: What is the function of the chest pocket 'welt' on a suit jacket?
- It is the finished fabric strip that forms the edge of the breast pocket opening (Correct answer)
- It is the canvas reinforcement behind the chest pocket
- It is the decorative stitching around the pocket opening
- It is the interfacing layer fused behind the pocket flap
Correct answer: It is the finished fabric strip that forms the edge of the breast pocket opening
The welt is the precisely cut and stitched band of fabric that finishes and frames the pocket opening.
Question 4: In menswear tailoring, what does 'suppression' refer to?
- Taking in the jacket side seams to create a waist shape (Correct answer)
- Removing the canvas layer to reduce jacket weight
- Trimming excess lining to prevent it from showing
- Reducing the collar height on a suit jacket
Correct answer: Taking in the jacket side seams to create a waist shape
Suppression is the shaping technique that takes in the side seams to create definition at the jacket waist.
Question 5: What is a 'gorge line' on a suit jacket?
- The seam where the collar meets the lapel (Correct answer)
- The crease line of the lapel roll
- The seam joining the jacket front to the side panel
- The stitch line along the bottom of the jacket hem
Correct answer: The seam where the collar meets the lapel
The gorge line is the seam that joins the collar to the lapel, and its height and angle affect the jacket's style and proportion.
Question 6: What is the purpose of 'felling' the lining in a jacket?
- Hand stitching the lining to the jacket hem edge so the stitches are invisible on both sides (Correct answer)
- Pressing the lining with a damp cloth to set its shape
- Machine stitching the lining to the facing along all edges
- Cutting the lining to match the outer fabric pattern
Correct answer: Hand stitching the lining to the jacket hem edge so the stitches are invisible on both sides
Felling is a hand-sewing technique that attaches the lining hem with blind stitches invisible on the exterior of the jacket.
Tailor Suit Construction and Bespoke Tailoring 2
Which type of jacket vent is most common in American suit tailoring?