Tailor Pattern Making and Measurements 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is 'seam allowance' in pattern making?
- The extra fabric added beyond the sewing line to form the seam (Correct answer)
- The amount of ease added for comfort
- The margin left at the hem for length adjustments
- The distance between two parallel stitching lines
Correct answer: The extra fabric added beyond the sewing line to form the seam
Seam allowance is the strip of fabric between the cut edge and the stitching line that holds the seam together.
Question 2: What does 'notching' a seam mean in construction terms?
- Cutting small V-shaped wedges from a curved seam allowance to reduce bulk on convex curves (Correct answer)
- Clipping small straight cuts into a seam allowance on concave curves
- Trimming the entire seam allowance to a smaller uniform width
- Folding the seam allowance under and pressing it flat
Correct answer: Cutting small V-shaped wedges from a curved seam allowance to reduce bulk on convex curves
Notching removes small wedge-shaped pieces from the seam allowance of convex curves so the fabric lies smooth when pressed.
Question 3: When drafting a collar pattern, what is the 'neckline seam length' used for?
- To ensure the collar's lower edge matches the jacket neckline and attaches without puckering (Correct answer)
- To determine the width of the collar stand
- To calculate the amount of interfacing required for the collar
- To set the height of the collar above the neckline
Correct answer: To ensure the collar's lower edge matches the jacket neckline and attaches without puckering
The collar's lower edge must match the exact length of the neckline seam so the collar attaches smoothly without gathering or stretching.
Question 4: What is the standard chest ease added to a men's suit jacket pattern?
- Approximately 4–6 inches above the chest measurement (Correct answer)
- Approximately 1–2 inches above the chest measurement
- Approximately 8–10 inches above the chest measurement
- No ease is added; the pattern matches exact body measurements
Correct answer: Approximately 4–6 inches above the chest measurement
A suit jacket typically includes 4–6 inches of ease above the chest measurement to allow for movement and comfortable fit over clothing.
Question 5: What does the 'CB' marking on a pattern piece indicate?
- Center back — the piece should be placed on or measured from the center back line (Correct answer)
- Cut on bias — the piece must be placed diagonally on the fabric
- Collar band — the piece is a collar component
- Cut both — the piece should be cut twice as a mirrored pair
Correct answer: Center back — the piece should be placed on or measured from the center back line
CB means center back and instructs the tailor to align this edge with the fabric's center back fold or seamline.
Question 6: What is the purpose of 'ease stitching' when setting in a sleeve?
- To gently gather the extra fabric in the sleeve cap so it eases smoothly into the armhole (Correct answer)
- To reinforce the armhole seam before attaching the sleeve
- To baste the sleeve lining to the outer fabric before insertion
- To topstitch the sleeve head for a decorative finish
Correct answer: To gently gather the extra fabric in the sleeve cap so it eases smoothly into the armhole
Ease stitching creates slight, even gathers in the sleeve cap fullness so it smoothly rounds over the shoulder without puckers.
What is 'seam allowance' in pattern making?