Tailor Garment Construction Techniques 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is a 'welt pocket' in tailoring?
- A pocket opening finished with folded strips of fabric forming a slit (Correct answer)
- A patch pocket stitched on the outside of the garment
- A hidden pocket sewn into the side seam
- A kangaroo-style pocket on the front of the garment
Correct answer: A pocket opening finished with folded strips of fabric forming a slit
A welt pocket is formed by a slit opening finished with one or two narrow fabric strips (welts) that frame the pocket opening neatly.
Question 2: What does 'stay stitching' do in garment construction?
- Stabilizes curved and bias-cut edges before assembly to prevent stretching (Correct answer)
- Permanently joins two fabric pieces together
- Attaches interfacing with heat
- Creates a decorative effect on pocket edges
Correct answer: Stabilizes curved and bias-cut edges before assembly to prevent stretching
Stay stitching is a line of machine stitches sewn just inside the seam allowance on curved or bias edges to prevent them from stretching during handling.
Question 3: What is the function of 'canvassing' in bespoke tailoring?
- Using layers of horsehair canvas stitched to the front of a jacket to give shape and drape (Correct answer)
- Covering the cutting table with canvas before marking fabric
- A technique for pressing jacket fronts into shape
- A method of drafting a jacket pattern freehand
Correct answer: Using layers of horsehair canvas stitched to the front of a jacket to give shape and drape
Canvassing involves hand-stitching layers of horsehair canvas to the jacket front to build a floating, breathable internal structure that molds to the wearer's body over time.
Question 4: What is the difference between a 'flat-felled seam' and a plain seam?
- A flat-felled seam folds both seam allowances to one side and topstitches them flat, enclosing the raw edges (Correct answer)
- A flat-felled seam leaves raw edges exposed for fraying
- A flat-felled seam uses a zigzag stitch for stretch
- A flat-felled seam joins fabric only on the wrong side
Correct answer: A flat-felled seam folds both seam allowances to one side and topstitches them flat, enclosing the raw edges
A flat-felled seam trims one seam allowance, wraps the other around it, and topstitches both flat to the fabric, enclosing all raw edges for a very strong, clean finish.
Question 5: What is 'catch-stitching' used for in tailoring?
- To hem and secure interfacing edges with a flexible hand stitch (Correct answer)
- To baste garment pieces together for fitting
- To attach buttons permanently to a jacket
- To sew the collar to the neckline
Correct answer: To hem and secure interfacing edges with a flexible hand stitch
Catch-stitching (also called herringbone stitch) is a flexible hand stitch used to hem garments and secure the raw edges of interfacing inside jackets.
Question 6: What is a 'bound buttonhole' and when is it used?
- A buttonhole with edges finished by folded fabric strips, used in high-end tailored garments (Correct answer)
- A machine-sewn buttonhole using satin stitch
- A buttonhole reinforced with metal eyelets
- A vertical buttonhole used only on shirt plackets
Correct answer: A buttonhole with edges finished by folded fabric strips, used in high-end tailored garments
A bound buttonhole has its edges finished with narrow strips of matching fabric, giving a clean, tailored appearance; it is used in quality suits and coats.
What is a 'welt pocket' in tailoring?