Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Technical Skills and Knowledge 3 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is 'back-clipping' and why is it dangerous for a lead climber?
- Clipping the rope through a quickdraw from back to front so the rope runs behind the carabiner gate, which can cause the gate to open and unclip during a fall (Correct answer)
- Clipping the bolt hanger rather than the quickdraw carabiner
- Reaching past a bolt to clip the next one higher up
- Clipping the rope through both carabiners of a quickdraw instead of only one
Correct answer: Clipping the rope through a quickdraw from back to front so the rope runs behind the carabiner gate, which can cause the gate to open and unclip during a fall
Back-clipping routes the rope so a fall-generated tug can press the rope into the gate, forcing it open and causing the quickdraw to unclip from the rope.
Question 2: What is 'Z-clipping' in lead climbing and what is the safest way to fix it?
- Clipping both strands of the rope through a single carabiner, fixed by unclipping the lower carabiner
- Pulling rope from below the last clipped bolt to clip the next one, creating a Z-shape that limits upward movement; fixed by unclipping the lower quickdraw and re-clipping from above (Correct answer)
- Twisting the rope around the quickdraw dogbone; fixed by rotating the draw
- Skipping a bolt intentionally; fixed by down-climbing to clip it
Correct answer: Pulling rope from below the last clipped bolt to clip the next one, creating a Z-shape that limits upward movement; fixed by unclipping the lower quickdraw and re-clipping from above
Z-clipping pulls rope from below the last bolt, pinning the rope in a Z shape that reduces the climber's upward progress and increases fall distance; the fix is to unclip the lower draw.
Question 3: A belayer using an assisted-braking device (e.g., Grigri) must still keep a hand on the brake strand because:
- Assisted-braking devices provide no additional friction compared to tube devices
- Manufacturer guidelines and safety standards require it, as the cam can fail to engage in certain fall scenarios (Correct answer)
- The device will not function at all without manual brake pressure
- Keeping a hand on the brake strand is optional but improves speed of lowering
Correct answer: Manufacturer guidelines and safety standards require it, as the cam can fail to engage in certain fall scenarios
No assisted-braking device is fail-proof; conditions such as a slowly weighted rope or improper orientation can prevent cam engagement, so a brake hand is always required.
Question 4: When lowering a climber with a tube-style belay device, which hand control technique should be used?
- Guide hand only, feeding rope through rapidly to reduce friction heat
- Brake hand slides in short increments, never releasing the rope; guide hand monitors rope feed (Correct answer)
- Both hands on brake strand simultaneously while the climber walks down
- Release the brake hand briefly to allow gravity to initiate lowering, then re-grip
Correct answer: Brake hand slides in short increments, never releasing the rope; guide hand monitors rope feed
Lowering requires continuous brake-hand contact using short slides to control descent speed, with the guide hand helping feed rope smoothly through the device.
Question 5: What is the purpose of a 'panic check' or pre-climb check (BARK or similar mnemonic) before a lead climb?
- To verify the difficulty rating matches the climber's ability
- To systematically confirm belay device setup, knot, harness, and communication are correct before leaving the ground (Correct answer)
- To inspect all quickdraws for wear and replace any with damaged gates
- To ensure the lead rope is the correct diameter for the belay device in use
Correct answer: To systematically confirm belay device setup, knot, harness, and communication are correct before leaving the ground
A pre-climb check (Buckles, Attachment, Rope, Knot — or similar) catches setup errors before the climber is exposed to fall risk.
Question 6: Which of the following is the MOST important communication a lead climber should make to the belayer before unclipping the last bolt while being lowered?
- 'Watch me!'
- 'Off belay!'
- 'I'm going to unclip — keep me on!' (Correct answer)
- 'Slack!'
Correct answer: 'I'm going to unclip — keep me on!'
Alerting the belayer before unclipping the last bolt ensures the belayer maintains tension, preventing an unexpected free-fall to the ground.
Question 7: In the context of Movement Belay Certification, what does 'catastrophic failure' mean when evaluating belay technique errors?
- A technique that earns a deduction but still passes certification
- An error that could directly result in the climber hitting the ground or sustaining a serious injury (Correct answer)
- Using a non-approved belay device during the evaluation
- Failing to use verbal commands during the evaluation scenario
Correct answer: An error that could directly result in the climber hitting the ground or sustaining a serious injury
A catastrophic failure is any error — such as releasing the brake hand or incorrect device threading — that removes the safety system and could cause the climber to fall uncontrolled.
Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Technical Skills and Knowledge 3
What is 'back-clipping' and why is it dangerous for a lead climber?