Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Technical Skills and Knowledge 2 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: When a climber falls on a sport route and the first bolt is clipped, what is the primary danger if the belayer is standing too close to the wall?
- The rope will kink excessively
- The climber may hit the ground before the rope catches (Correct answer)
- The belay device will lock up prematurely
- The carabiner gate may open from rope drag
Correct answer: The climber may hit the ground before the rope catches
If the belayer stands too close to the wall, they may be pulled upward on a fall, reducing the braking effect and allowing the climber to hit the ground.
Question 2: What does 'soft catching' a leader fall mean?
- Holding the brake strand loosely so the rope slides through
- Jumping toward the wall as the climber falls to add dynamic give to the catch (Correct answer)
- Feeding slack rapidly during the fall
- Locking off the belay device immediately on fall
Correct answer: Jumping toward the wall as the climber falls to add dynamic give to the catch
Soft catching involves the belayer jumping slightly toward the wall as the leader falls, adding dynamic movement that reduces peak impact force on the climber.
Question 3: Which scenario MOST justifies giving a 'hard' (static) catch instead of a soft catch?
- The climber is above a ledge or feature they could hit during a dynamic fall (Correct answer)
- The route overhang is greater than 45 degrees
- The climber weighs significantly more than the belayer
- The first bolt is more than 2 meters off the ground
Correct answer: The climber is above a ledge or feature they could hit during a dynamic fall
When a ledge, shelf, or wall feature is close below the climber, a static catch limits fall distance and reduces the risk of the climber striking the obstacle.
Question 4: In a top-rope belay, what is the correct technique for taking in slack as the climber ascends?
- Pull the brake strand and simultaneously push the load strand through the device, keeping the brake hand on the rope at all times (Correct answer)
- Release both hands momentarily to reposition before pulling in slack
- Use only the guide hand to pull slack through while the brake hand rests on the device body
- Alternate hands on the brake strand to maximize speed
Correct answer: Pull the brake strand and simultaneously push the load strand through the device, keeping the brake hand on the rope at all times
Proper top-rope technique pulls slack with the guide hand while the brake hand stays on the rope and slides down to the brake position without releasing grip.
Question 5: A Movement Belay Certification evaluator asks you to demonstrate a two-stage lock-off. What is the key characteristic of this technique?
- The brake strand is wrapped twice around the device before locking
- The brake hand moves to a position perpendicular to the device, then redirects downward to maximize friction (Correct answer)
- Both hands are placed on the brake strand simultaneously
- The load strand is pinched against the device with the guide hand
Correct answer: The brake hand moves to a position perpendicular to the device, then redirects downward to maximize friction
A two-stage lock-off moves the brake hand perpendicular and then back to activate maximum friction in the belay device, creating a secure hands-free lock.
Question 6: What is the recommended minimum number of full, opposing, and locking carabiner positions for a masterpoint anchor used in climbing gym top-rope setups?
- One locking carabiner oriented correctly
- Two non-locking carabiners in opposite and opposing gates
- Two locking carabiners oriented in opposite directions (Correct answer)
- Three non-locking carabiners all facing the same direction
Correct answer: Two locking carabiners oriented in opposite directions
Two locking carabiners with gates facing opposite directions (opposed and reversed) provide redundancy and prevent accidental opening at the masterpoint.
Question 7: During a lead belay, a climber shouts 'Falling!' and falls before clipping the next bolt. The rope runs through the last clipped bolt. What should the belayer do?
- Feed out extra slack quickly to soften the catch
- Hold the brake strand firmly and brace for the dynamic load (Correct answer)
- Remove the brake hand from the rope to avoid being pulled
- Step directly under the bolt to reduce fall distance
Correct answer: Hold the brake strand firmly and brace for the dynamic load
The belayer must keep the brake hand firmly on the rope and brace for the load; feeding slack or removing the hand would increase fall distance and danger.
Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Technical Skills and Knowledge 2
When a climber falls on a sport route and the first bolt is clipped, what is the primary danger if the belayer is standing too close to the wall?