Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Safety Protocols and Procedures 3 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: What is the purpose of a 'keeper cord' or tether when belaying at a multipitch anchor?
- To anchor the rope to the rock independently of the climber
- To connect the belayer to the anchor so they cannot be pulled off (Correct answer)
- To extend the belay device away from the harness belay loop
- To prevent the rope from running through the device during a fall
Correct answer: To connect the belayer to the anchor so they cannot be pulled off
The tether keeps the belayer secured to the anchor so a leader fall cannot drag them off their stance.
Question 2: If a climber's weight is suddenly loaded onto the rope during a belay, what should the belayer do first?
- Release the brake hand to reduce jerk
- Maintain brake position and brace against the load (Correct answer)
- Immediately begin lowering to reduce tension
- Call out to the climber to step back on the wall
Correct answer: Maintain brake position and brace against the load
Maintaining the brake position and absorbing the load is the correct first response; releasing the brake hand would be catastrophic.
Question 3: When using an assisted-braking device (ABD) such as a Grigri, what is still required of the belayer?
- No brake-hand grip is needed since the device locks automatically
- The brake hand must still be kept on the rope at all times (Correct answer)
- The device eliminates the need to watch the climber
- Only one hand is needed on the rope at any time
Correct answer: The brake hand must still be kept on the rope at all times
ABDs assist but do not replace proper technique; the brake hand must remain on the rope since the device can be defeated by improper handling.
Question 4: A climber is 5 feet off the ground and the rope has 6 feet of slack. What is the risk?
- The climber will pendulum into the wall
- The climber could ground-fall despite being on belay (Correct answer)
- The anchor will be shock-loaded dangerously
- Rope drag will increase exponentially
Correct answer: The climber could ground-fall despite being on belay
Excess slack means the climber would fall more than the available slack before the rope arrests them, causing a ground-fall.
Question 5: What is the recommended belay stance to maximize braking effectiveness?
- Feet together, standing directly under the first bolt
- Balanced, stable stance with feet shoulder-width apart and braced (Correct answer)
- Seated on the ground to lower the center of gravity
- Standing on tiptoe to maintain higher hand position
Correct answer: Balanced, stable stance with feet shoulder-width apart and braced
A stable, balanced stance enables the belayer to absorb dynamic loads and maintain brake-hand control through a fall.
Question 6: Why is it dangerous to belay with gloves not designed for climbing?
- They reduce brake-hand friction on the rope
- They can cause the rope to run faster through the device
- They may interfere with feel, delay reaction, or slip on the rope (Correct answer)
- They add unnecessary weight to the belay system
Correct answer: They may interfere with feel, delay reaction, or slip on the rope
Non-climbing gloves can reduce tactile feedback and grip reliability, slowing the belayer's response to a fall.
Question 7: At what point should a belayer begin taking in rope on a top-rope system?
- Only after the climber requests it verbally
- Continuously as the climber ascends to keep the rope snug (Correct answer)
- Every 10 feet of climbing as a standard interval
- Only when the climber pauses to rest
Correct answer: Continuously as the climber ascends to keep the rope snug
Continuously taking in rope as the climber ascends eliminates slack and minimizes potential fall distance.
Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Safety Protocols and Procedures 3
What is the purpose of a 'keeper cord' or tether when belaying at a multipitch anchor?