Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Practical Application and Evaluation 3 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: A lead climber is injured and cannot assist in their own descent. The belayer must escape the belay to provide assistance. The first step is to:
- Tie a mule knot with an overhand backup to lock off the belay device completely (Correct answer)
- Call for help and wait for a rescue team before taking any action
- Lower the climber immediately to the ground
- Unclip the belay device and reattach the rope to the anchor
Correct answer: Tie a mule knot with an overhand backup to lock off the belay device completely
A mule knot with an overhand backup locks the load onto the device, freeing both of the belayer's hands to perform the escape sequence.
Question 2: During a lead belay evaluation, the evaluator notices the belayer has more than arm's length of slack in the system while the climber is below the first bolt. This is dangerous because:
- The climber could hit the ground before the rope comes taut in a fall (Correct answer)
- The rope will tangle in the belay device and jam
- Excess slack makes clipping bolts more difficult
- The rope weight will pull the climber off the wall
Correct answer: The climber could hit the ground before the rope comes taut in a fall
Before the first bolt, any slack in the system can result in a ground fall since there is no anchor point to limit the fall distance.
Question 3: A climber calls 'Watch me!' from the wall. The correct belayer response is to:
- Take in any excess slack and pay close attention, ready to absorb a fall (Correct answer)
- Immediately lock off the device to prevent any rope movement
- Call back 'I've got you!' and step back from the wall
- Feed extra rope in case the climber needs to clip quickly
Correct answer: Take in any excess slack and pay close attention, ready to absorb a fall
'Watch me!' signals the climber is in a difficult position and may fall; the belayer should minimize slack and be alert without fully locking off.
Question 4: A GriGri-equipped belayer accidentally grips the cam lever during a fall, preventing the device from engaging. This error is best prevented by:
- Keeping the brake hand positioned on the rope below the device, not on the device body (Correct answer)
- Wrapping the cam lever with tape to limit accidental activation
- Using a backup belay knot at all times with a GriGri
- Always using two hands on the device during a fall
Correct answer: Keeping the brake hand positioned on the rope below the device, not on the device body
Proper hand position on the brake strand — not on the device body — prevents inadvertently defeating the assisted-braking mechanism.
Question 5: An evaluator asks a belayer to demonstrate a redirect belay from an anchor at a top-rope station. The belayer must clip the belay device to the anchor because:
- It allows the climber to be lowered directly from the anchor, reducing force on the belayer's harness (Correct answer)
- It is required by all certification standards regardless of situation
- It eliminates rope drag entirely on the climb
- It prevents the rope from running over sharp rock edges
Correct answer: It allows the climber to be lowered directly from the anchor, reducing force on the belayer's harness
A redirected anchor belay transfers the load to the anchor rather than the belayer's body, making it easier to hold a heavier climber and control a lower.
Question 6: During practical evaluation, a belayer is asked what they should do if a climber's hair or clothing gets caught in the belay device. The correct first action is:
- Lock off the belay device immediately to prevent further feeding of material (Correct answer)
- Have the climber downclimb to reduce rope tension
- Pull the trapped material sharply to free it
- Remove the rope from the device to release the jam
Correct answer: Lock off the belay device immediately to prevent further feeding of material
Locking off prevents the device from pulling more material through, allowing a controlled and deliberate approach to freeing the obstruction.
Question 7: An evaluator tests a belayer's communication protocol. When a climber reaches the top and yells 'Off belay!', the correct belayer response after confirming is:
- 'Belay off!' — then remove the rope from the device (Correct answer)
- Immediately release all tension and unclip the device
- 'Belay on!' — to confirm the system remains active
- 'Lowering!' — to begin the descent sequence
Correct answer: 'Belay off!' — then remove the rope from the device
Responding 'Belay off!' confirms the belayer has acknowledged the command and actively released the belay, maintaining a shared understanding of the system state.
Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Practical Application and Evaluation 3
A lead climber is injured and cannot assist in their own descent.
The belayer must escape the belay to provide assistance.
The first step is to: