Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Climbing and Belaying Equipment 3 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: A static rope is inappropriate for lead climbing primarily because:
- It is too heavy to carry on long routes
- It does not stretch enough to absorb fall forces, generating dangerous peak loads (Correct answer)
- It lacks UIAA certification for climbing use
- Its diameter is too large to fit through belay devices
Correct answer: It does not stretch enough to absorb fall forces, generating dangerous peak loads
Static ropes have very low elongation; a lead fall on a static rope transfers extreme shock forces to the climber, anchor, and protection.
Question 2: When inspecting a belay device, a groove worn into the aluminum by the rope indicates:
- The device is broken in and performs better
- Reduced braking friction and the device should be retired (Correct answer)
- Normal surface oxidation that can be filed smooth
- The rope diameter is too small for that device
Correct answer: Reduced braking friction and the device should be retired
Deep grooves remove material that creates friction; a grooved device provides less braking force and should be replaced.
Question 3: A 'half rope' system requires the leader to clip each rope strand to:
- The same piece of protection on every placement
- Alternating protection pieces to reduce rope drag and redirect falls (Correct answer)
- Both strands through a single bolt for redundancy
- Only the anchor bolts at the top
Correct answer: Alternating protection pieces to reduce rope drag and redirect falls
In a half-rope system, each strand is clipped independently to alternating gear to minimize drag and keep the fall line straighter.
Question 4: What does a UIAA fall rating of 5 on a single rope indicate?
- The rope has been tested to hold at least 5 UIAA standard falls before failure (Correct answer)
- The rope can be used for falls up to 5 meters only
- The rope has 5% elongation under load
- The rope weighs 5 grams per meter
Correct answer: The rope has been tested to hold at least 5 UIAA standard falls before failure
UIAA fall rating counts the number of consecutive standard test falls a rope survives before breaking; higher is more durable.
Question 5: Why should a locking carabiner on a belay device be rotated so the gate faces away from the rock?
- To prevent rock abrasion from wearing the gate open (Correct answer)
- To allow the rope to feed more smoothly through the device
- To prevent the gate from snagging on the harness belay loop
- To keep the major axis aligned with the load direction
Correct answer: To prevent rock abrasion from wearing the gate open
Rock contact can press on an outward-facing gate and inadvertently open it, so orienting the gate away from the wall reduces this risk.
Question 6: Which harness component should NEVER be used as a tie-in point for the climbing rope?
- The tie-in points on the waist belt
- The belay loop
- The tie-in points on the leg loops
- The gear loops (Correct answer)
Correct answer: The gear loops
Gear loops are lightly sewn and rated only for gear weight; they are not load-bearing safety components and must never receive the climbing rope.
Question 7: What does a 'dry' or 'water-repellent' treatment on a rope primarily slow?
- UV degradation from sunlight
- Elongation under high loads
- Water absorption into the core and sheath fibers (Correct answer)
- Abrasion from rough rock surfaces
Correct answer: Water absorption into the core and sheath fibers
Dry treatments coat individual fibers to resist water penetration, keeping the rope lighter and maintaining its dynamic performance when wet.
Movement Belay Certification Movement Belay Climbing and Belaying Equipment 3
A static rope is inappropriate for lead climbing primarily because: