Movement Belay Certification Informational Text 3 — Questions and Answers
Question 1: A belay certification study guide explains 'Z-clipping.' What is a Z-clip?
- Clipping the bolt with rope from below the previous clip instead of the rope coming from the climber's harness (Correct answer)
- Clipping a bolt while the rope runs behind the climber's leg
- Threading the rope through two bolts simultaneously
- Clipping both strands of a doubled rope into the same bolt
Correct answer: Clipping the bolt with rope from below the previous clip instead of the rope coming from the climber's harness
Z-clipping pulls rope from below the last clip, creating a Z-shape that locks the rope and prevents feeding slack to the climber.
Question 2: According to Movement's equipment guidelines, a locking carabiner on a belay device must be locked. What type of lock is required at most gyms?
- A screwgate or auto-locking gate that is fully engaged (Correct answer)
- Any carabiner with a gate that can withstand 5 kN
- A wiregate carabiner screwed shut with a tool
- A non-locking carabiner clipped in opposition to a second carabiner
Correct answer: A screwgate or auto-locking gate that is fully engaged
Gyms require a locking carabiner with the screwgate or auto-lock fully engaged to prevent accidental opening.
Question 3: A gym safety sheet states the belayer should give a 'soft catch.' In which situation is a soft catch especially important?
- When the climber is near the top of the wall and a stiff catch could slam them into it (Correct answer)
- When the climber is at the first bolt and a stiff catch prevents ground falls
- When the rope is wet and friction is reduced
- When the climber weighs significantly more than the belayer
Correct answer: When the climber is near the top of the wall and a stiff catch could slam them into it
A soft catch near the top prevents the climber from being pulled hard into the wall face by an abrupt stop.
Question 4: An informational text describes 'rope drag' as a hazard. How does excessive rope drag affect the climber?
- It makes it harder to clip bolts and can cause the climber to fall from the extra effort required (Correct answer)
- It causes the rope to kink permanently
- It pulls the belayer upward unexpectedly
- It causes the belay device to overheat
Correct answer: It makes it harder to clip bolts and can cause the climber to fall from the extra effort required
Excessive rope drag increases the physical effort needed to pull slack, making clipping difficult and increasing fall risk.
Question 5: A Movement belay manual states belayers must watch their climber at all times. Which action violates this rule?
- Looking down at the belay device while the climber is attempting a difficult move (Correct answer)
- Taking in slack as the climber moves up the wall
- Standing close to the wall to observe the climber's feet
- Giving a verbal warning when the first bolt is near
Correct answer: Looking down at the belay device while the climber is attempting a difficult move
Looking away from the climber, even briefly, means the belayer cannot react immediately to a fall.
Question 6: A certification text warns against belaying with a 'death grip.' What problem does an overly tight brake hand cause?
- It can make it difficult to smoothly feed slack, disrupting the climber's movement (Correct answer)
- It weakens the rope fibers over time
- It locks the rope in the belay device preventing lowering
- It causes hand fatigue that leads to dropping the brake strand
Correct answer: It can make it difficult to smoothly feed slack, disrupting the climber's movement
A death grip restricts smooth rope feeding, which can pull the climber off the wall or prevent natural movement.
Question 7: According to a gym informational sign, after lowering a climber to the ground, the belayer should immediately do what?
- Keep the brake strand held until the climber announces they are off belay and the rope is unweighted (Correct answer)
- Release the rope through the device and step away from the wall
- Unclip the belay device from the harness
- Give a thumbs up to signal the climber the lower is complete
Correct answer: Keep the brake strand held until the climber announces they are off belay and the rope is unweighted
Maintaining control of the brake strand until the climber is fully on the ground and off belay prevents any accidental drops.
A belay certification study guide explains 'Z-clipping.' What is a Z-clip?